New reefer vs used, pros and cons revisited.

Discussion in 'Refrigerated Trucking Forum' started by TallJoe, Jan 28, 2018.

  1. Misesian

    Misesian Road Train Member

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    My experience now and as a dispatcher regarding older trailer trailers is the ABS system. Wiring harness, corroded plugs, and wheel sensors. I have spent about 800.00 on my current trailer to fix ABS, I’ve replaced a starter, and had to replace a compressor seal. I did all of it when I was in for time off. Still under 2000.00 in maintenance. This is on my 2011 trailer. I bought it for less than 27k. If you have the money you could look at the 50-55k range and get a pretty nice trailer.
     
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  3. 201

    201 Road Train Member

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    1st, yes, you can make it today, but you have to more frugal than ever. I did all my own work on the truck, and saved literally hundreds of dollars ( today, that would translate into thousands) I got by with used stuff, and did ok. If you can't work on your own stuff, and new equipment breaks too, it's going to be tough. I'd have to think insurance, which was a huge expense 20 years ago, would still be your biggest headache.
    2nd, I never thought of trucking as the most dangerous job, I believe astronauts, farmers, and construction workers are the leading ones, but trucking is right up there.
     
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  4. Rocknroller4

    Rocknroller4 Road Train Member

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    Thank you and good point. Well I have to go company first of course but once I understand the business I might get a used truck. We will see. Don't want to get ahead of myself just yet.
     
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  5. CheetahGirl

    CheetahGirl Bobtail Member

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    Used reefer a few years old is the way to go. Also, I’d Never haul ice cream unless a newer unit. You can purchase a newer unit from a trailer that was in an accident but did not ruin the reefer part from copart.com and put it on a different trailer. They’re not hard to remove and replace. You can take it to a Mechanic and they can dismantle one and install it on a different trailer and you’ll have a new reefer at a cheaper price.
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2018
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  6. BoostedTeg

    BoostedTeg Road Train Member

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    If you’re looking at used trailers in the 50-55 range then I’d just spend 5-10 more and get a brand new one at that point.
     
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  7. TallJoe

    TallJoe Road Train Member

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    I spoke with Utility salesman and the brand new trailer 3000R with X4 -7300 is 65.5K. He said it had some o/o specd features of which I remember the 16 inch Aluminum Wearband, Central Inflator Systems, Side Skirts, Aluminum rims...But yeah at 50 -55K I'd probably go all the way and get a brand new too. To add e-tracks, it is extra $ 800 per one (both sides). I guess two would be better.
    At least 10% - 6.5K down payment is required, just like van trailer.
     
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2018
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  8. ReeferRick

    ReeferRick Light Load Member

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    Why?
     
  9. Snailexpress

    Snailexpress Road Train Member

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    You can save a lot of greens looking trailer on ritchie bros auction. Sometime they have 1 year old trailers from failed company sale. They can finance you if you need. I got my great dane 2016 for almost 50% less then SLC Utility was asking. Pic the auction, go inspect few trailers and be happy.
     
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  10. rollin coal

    rollin coal Road Train Member

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    E-traks are #### handy I admit. But I think in a reefer, how they are attached to the walls, just allows an unfortunate entry point for moisture into the walls. I haul plenty of bulk totes filled with liquid requiring a tanker endorsement in a reefer. I admit e-traks would be better securement but I never have any issues with just a couple of load locks and sensible driving. I had removed 1 load lock before I took the pic below and it was taken after the trip was completed. Freight looks the same as it did when it was loaded as it always should. I always secure with 2 of the cheaper type load locks and none of this type freight ever shifts on my trips.
     

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    Last edited: Feb 5, 2018
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  11. TallJoe

    TallJoe Road Train Member

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    Hmm... I did not realize that they might be an entry point of moisture. You could be very right, though. Maybe I should reconsider the e-tracks then...See.. the load locks were always slipping off the walls for me but it might have been their worn out foot pads (or whatever the rubber/plastic endings are called) I would not want to put too much pressure against the walls either. But that's the only way to make them stay put sometimes. No perfect solution.
     
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