REGEN ISSUE: DOSER OR OTHER?

Discussion in 'Peterbilt Forum' started by LSTAR422995, Oct 13, 2018.

  1. Diesel Dave

    Diesel Dave Last Few of the OUTLAWS

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    This has always been my way of thinking. Preventive maintenance...... replace it to always have that peace of mind.
    I soon to will probably have one of these engines If CARB doesn’t grandfather us in Cali with our aftermarket DPF’s. Interesting thread, been learning about these engines. Currently running a 3406E. Best engine I ever had.
     
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  3. fargonaz

    fargonaz Road Train Member

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    In my experience with a 2250 it takes about an hour for a stationary regen. You should look at the DPF in/out temps and DOC temp and the DPF differential pressure(all these show up in the aftertreatment history) Your DPF should be greater than 1000(mine gets to 1150 regularly, both in and out) my DOC is usually between 670 - 700. I had to replace both the DOC and DPF at ~640k. I made this decision after spending 1K on a 'cummins reman' DPF that didn't last 20K miles(it was plugged worse that the one I gave them for a core.) The ~7300 that I spent on new DOC and DPF was worth it and the firmware upgrade for my engine from .36 to .39 was also helpful mostly because I there's a setting in the J1939 multiplexing section for the parking brake and without that set correctly the passive regens wern't effective due to the low temps they produced.

    If your DPF and DOC are plugged, regens are going to fail which it sounds like yours are, if they only take 20 minutes and requests another shortly afterwards. The dealership is NOT your friend. They have ZERO interest in actually fixing your problem especially if you're just passing through.

    It also sounds like the pistons are carbon packed, only you can make the decision as to when too much is really too much. A diesel already burns oil, so there's that.

    The overhead adjustment is straight forward I do it in my driveway once a year(2 torque wrenches, a couple of crowsfeet and a couple of allen keys and 3/4" cheaterbar to bar the motor over) took ~2 hours the first time(paranoid) and about 1hr the next.

    Lots of great info on Rawze's site, like everyone says.

    Good Luck
     
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  4. LSTAR422995

    LSTAR422995 Bobtail Member

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    I have gained a lot of insight just from the threads here. I have recently taken great interest in the Rawze vids, and have looked at some. The only trouble I have is working on my own stuff. I live in a rented property with a 10% grade for a driveway which makes for no access for the truck Have to park 1/2 mile away and get home in POV. So I rely heavily on qualified people to get the job done. I certainly need to find someone other than a dealer... But proximity is the problem for me. I will figure something out. Just need to trust someone for the time being. The fact that I know most of this stuff is incredible and even more is my abiliity to obtain that which I don't . thank you to everyone who has replied
     
  5. BUMBACLADWAR

    BUMBACLADWAR Road Train Member

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    Mine...all needed replaced ..oh,every 150k it seems like.Just pointing out the "Emergency derate treatment" of hooking laptop to it and "burning it out",just was a "bandaid ".2 to 400 miles later problem returned.
     
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  6. Army91W

    Army91W Heavy Load Member

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    San Antonio, TX
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    You said you replaced the dozer. And you cleaned or replaced the dpf. The last component is the doc. The doc is $2500-$3500.

    The risk you have of running it is the back pressure the exhaust puts on the turbo if everything is clogged up.

    I don't think 425 miles is a big deal it's just if you get derated then you're looking at a service call to get you out of derate and then into the shop.
    Cummins isn't bashful if you google their maintanace schedule you're right in the wear out period for the dpf system. There is a reason the fleets sell them at 350,000 to 500,000 miles.
    Good luck.
     
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  7. pushbroom

    pushbroom Road Train Member

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    Do not start throwing parts at this.
    Complete and utter waste of time and money.
    You need insite to be able to accuratly diagnose and fix this issue. If you dont have that it will need to go to a trusted shop.
    I have no idea how this thread is on 5 pages already...
     
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  8. LSTAR422995

    LSTAR422995 Bobtail Member

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    Very insightful stuff... just what this is for.
    just put JPRO to work... interesting thing is the AfterTreatment Pressures during a forced regen are all over the map... jumping between 138 - 190. during the regen the pressure spikes down to almost 80psi... and the DPF Temps fall from 1200 to 750, and return to 1200 over a 5 min timeframe. I have to wonder if the sensor is bad, or the wiring harness is screwed up again. Both are relatively new and recently replaced. I always understood that the pressure should vary slightly... but not that dramatically What are your thoughts.
     
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  9. pushbroom

    pushbroom Road Train Member

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    What aftertreatment pressure? Its not differential pressure as it maxs at 3psi or so.
    Exhaust gas pressure? Aftertreatment fuel pressure?

    When the temps drop is it still dosing?
    Im assuming aftertreatment fuel pressure drops and so does the temp. Points to shutoff valve or fuel issues.

    What is the code it throws?
     
  10. LSTAR422995

    LSTAR422995 Bobtail Member

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    yeah... I have a sneaky feeling the NOX sensor is shorting out again.... The AfterTreatment Fuel Injector Pressure is 170-190 when normal... then it falls to under 80 for a period of about 2 mins and then goes back to normal... after that is going to different ranges from 140 - to nearly 195.... then falls again once DPF out temp reaches 1250 deg. the mech monitoring the JPro with me says that as well. Just had the 1939 network 2 as an active on the report, and the NOX update rate abnormal... So... Looks like I have a culprit... Still hang on to that Pressure thought though / you may be on to something
     
  11. pushbroom

    pushbroom Road Train Member

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    Nox sensor has nothing to do with regens. Treat it as a seperate system.
    Nox abnormal update rate can mean a faulty sensor, or an issue in the power supply or 1939.
    Check for 12v on 2 of the pins for the nox sensor with key on. Get a friend to watch the 12v then go underneath and shake all the harnesses to make sure it stays at 12 and there isnt an intermittant break.
    Other 2 pins should have 60 ohms key off on the datalink. Shake all the harnesses again. If the readings stay level, replace the sensor.

    Any exhuast leaks?
     
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