Tie rod cross tube thread chaser?

Did you hit them with a wire wheel?

 

Always always always apply liberal amount of anti-seize to the threads, even on the inside. You can spray some penetrant down the tube to help break up the scale. I have never come across a chaser or tap that big, but I am sure there is such a tap that size. Some new ends have to be turned in with a pipe wrench when the threads are that bad in the tube. If bad enough, work it back and forth. It should get a bit easier as it cuts through each time.

 

those are called "tie rod end sleeves"...you might need to buy new ones. if they are badly rusted, you ain't gonna chase them and there really isn't a thread chaser that big.

when you assemble it, coat the tie rod ends and sleeves with anti-seize.



or what you can do is, loosen up the other end, screw that sleeve over, then put the new tie rod in....

 

Wouldn't hurt to clean everything up. So much easier to see what's wrong.

 

I will answer the last question first. No
At one time I worked for a major company. When trucks came in we had to do all of the regular dealer inservice stuff which included alignment. I could always loosen the bolts on those crosshafts with a standard 1/2" rachat while adjusting toe in. I do not know the torque spec on those but I would thank 85 Ft Lbs would be enough.
In the real world I run into some that have had a magic air wrench on them and are very tight. That can distort the threads inside of the tube. I kind of doubt you can just rethread it like a bolt hole. The tube is split where the clamp goes and will expand. If you snug the clamp up on the tube first it might help some.
Have had a man on a 4 ft pipe wrench on each side and used a floor jack under a pipe wrench to turn some. If it does not have to run tonight I would just by a new tube as Buddy said. His picture is automotive but is the similar. Just add about six feet.
When properly installed they are down and out. Yes down and out. If you put a pipe wrench on top of the tube, with the handle pointing to the rear, pushing it down moves the toe out.
The rust belt trucks maybe a lot different but I have turned some tubes with channel locks on old trucks.

 

That’s what I would do. Chase them with old tie rods, and pb blaster

 

Should have counted turns, doesn’t matter, getting aligned anyway. You can measure and center up ends/ wheels. Just toe out a tiny bit in front

 

you could put anti-seize on the tie rod end (shank) that goes into the knuckle, but that always comes apart with no real problem.

for the tie rod sleeve, if you were able to find a wire brush (or a set) like this...

IPA 3-3/4" Stainless Steel Bore Brush Set, 3/4", 5/16", 7/16", 9/16", 10/16", 13/32" Brush Dia. - 19RE95|8080 - Grainger!

they would come in handy any time.