Where is everyone #5

Off hand, I can't think of a legal industry that employs more losers than trucking. Oh sure there's prostitution and drug dealers and biker gangs and so forth but I'm talking legal enterprises. Not too long ago they caught one sick fck that had this girl chained up inside the bunk for months. He filed her teeth down. There's half a chance your sister in law gets sold into a prostitution ring and moved off shore to be a sex slave. Truth.

 

Another industry comes to mind. Employees of the US Government. They employ about 2 million.

 

I did the sleeve kits. I don't trust things to stay put with the pins, especially on a dual. One set does an axle, so a total of six sleeves 3 per hub (I think they're all 1 piece now) in a package. You would need two sets to do all your drive hubs, and one set for the steer axle if you wanted to do that while you're in there.

If you aren't absolutely positive about what brake drums you have, pull one off and measure it. Stud hole diameter and flange thickness (depth of the stud hole). To make sure you're getting the correct sets with the right depth settings. You already said you had all steel rims, so that's the last data point to get the right kits. Of course if you do the steer axle, measure one of those drums too.

When you put the sleeves on, paint them with anti seize. You'll thank yourself next time you take the wheels off. Make sure everything is seated up on the sleeves before tightening the lugs. The new 1 piece design seems to prevent it, but I had a tire guy crush a couple the old 2 piece sleeves by hammering the lugs down when they weren't fully seated. It's visually obvious when they aren't seated. But what tire guy have you ever seen actually check something like that?

It makes mounting the wheels both harder and easier to do. It can take some finesse to get the brake drum in place then both wheels on a dual to get up on the sleeves right. However, once everything is pushed together, the wheels just stay in position better, versus hanging crooked until you run in a couple lugs. A little cussing helps them fit better. Taking the wheels back off, you may have to pry or hammer them off of the sleeves. It's not as bad as it sounds, but they won't just fall off the hub like before. It's helped me to paint the end of the 3 studs the sleeves are on so I remember where they are next time I have to take a wheel off.

There's a ton of information on their website. Ron is listed for tech support and that's his cell phone number. He doesn't always pick up, but will return calls promptly if you leave a voice mail.

 

So tell me Oldskool. I've never seen a turbo failure lead to a runaway in person but Your experience has me thinking about what I can do to prevent it. In hindsight, is there anything you could have checked or that I can check to make sure that doesn't happen? I know your turbo wasn't that old but is preventive maintenance something I should be considering for my turbo?

 

True but their specialty is theft and extortion

 

Sounds like he's using a weight distribution hitch. A couple spring bars extend back and are pulled up under the trailer to shift the tongue weight farther forward on the tow vehicle, versus entirely on the ball hitch.

I looked into these at one time, then decided trading into a bigger pickup would solve the problem easier LOL.

I find that mpg claim a little hard to believe. That's a lot of weight and wind for a 1/2 ton truck to push in the mountains at 75 mph.

 

Red, I have the sleeves for the steers that stay on. Then the wedding rings on the rear drums and used the pins. Never have I found one that moved. The reason I started with the pins too. Is they are reusable for us shop guys. It's a product you can sell over and over. But with confidence, they will not move or shift when all lugs are tight.

 

Messing up traffic.

 

She met him here in Evanston. After knowing him for a few minutes they were headed out of town.

Sounds like she's heading to Denver now. Her mom lives there and she's going to try to get her to get some professional help.

 

Morning Rank, anytime I do maintenance on my Rig I try to check as much as I can. Anytime I do a overhead I have to pull the fresh air intake tubes, so I always check the turbo shaft by rolling and shaking it, feeling for any extra loose motion. I never felt anything to alert me of a problem. When the shaft broke it naturally took the seal out with it. With the seal broke and having to drive a good 3/4 mile or so to find a safe area to park ( thinking a boot or clamp broke on the CAC ) The Engine was pumping oil at 40 psi right into the air supply tube which was filling the CAC in front of the radiator full of oil, keep in mind the engine running kept sucking air through the system pulling oil with it..... the rpm’s were up just a little when I jumped out of the truck, when it went for a moonshot I was on the right side with my flashlight when I realized what was happening. By the time I ran around to the drivers door it was starting to scream, I yanked the keys out of the ignition but it was to late, ever heard a Big Cam scream at 3000+ rpm’s?? A lot of things will go through your mind in these times, and the one thing you don’t want going through your mind is a cast iron shower from a grenading engine.....