Oil leak, fuel pump or front cover?

Discussion in 'International Forum' started by kubasj05, Oct 10, 2019.

  1. kubasj05

    kubasj05 Light Load Member

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    This is on my 2012 Maxxforce 13, I know that fuel pump was replaced 3-4 years ago, I think that fuel pump sealant failure is a culprit. Didn't notice leak until recently underneath fuethel pump when greasing truck. I've attached pictures of the pump from below, they are showing front end of engine and pump as well. I cleaned up the area with brake cleaner, some wetness remained however I may need to remove all that grime in order to pin point the source.
    I can take on fuel pump but front cover job is ridiculous, what are your thoughts on this?
    Thanks in advance, Jacob 2019-10-10_175115.jpg 2019-10-10_175115.jpg 2019-10-10_175115.jpg 2019-10-10_175020.jpg
     

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  3. Heavyd

    Heavyd Road Train Member

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    Is there are chance it is the oil fill? They leak most of the time. Also, how bad is this? I am not a big fan of tearing a motor apart for cosmetic oil leaks. Is it leaving puddles on the ground? For sure, you need to wash the area thoroughly and recheck it.
     
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  4. kubasj05

    kubasj05 Light Load Member

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    It starts to drip and drags the oil towards the back of the engine, it's not good in the long run.
    I've done filler neck few months ago and she's dry there.
    Cleaned her up some more today than took it for a spin and it looks like it's coming from the fuel pump seal. I'll check back on Monday when I get a load on her. I'll be fixing the seal leak next weekend.
    Quick question, what international uses as far as power steering fluid goes? I'm going to put some fresh one instead reusing old.
    Thanks for heads up Heavyd
     
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  5. Heavyd

    Heavyd Road Train Member

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    Just regular power steering fluid.
     
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  6. kubasj05

    kubasj05 Light Load Member

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    Heavyd, would you happen to know the torque specs for fuel pump mounting bolts? I've been searching and found that it is 77ft/pounds however I'm not quite sure if that is right. I'm getting ready for my Saturday date with the fuel pump so trying to cover all bases.
     
  7. Heavyd

    Heavyd Road Train Member

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    77 is it.
     
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  8. kubasj05

    kubasj05 Light Load Member

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    Ok, done with fuel pump seal, took me 5-6 hours because I took my time cleaning mating surfaces, slightly sending with 1200 grit by hand.
    Few things to note:
    1. Sealant used to do a job is International RT442, paid $32 at the dealership, you can find alternatives for less
    2. You have to loosen the 2 18mm bolts holding pump bracket to the block, I've spent 30min wrestling with the pump and could not get it to install, smeared the sealant all over. Had to pull the pump clean it and repeat. Just get them loose, that's it.
    2. Pump and gear assembly is heavy, if you have someone to help that's preferred but if your arms are strong you can do it yourself but have to be careful and it takes some wiggle to set the pump just right without messing up fresh sealant.
    4. Broke one alternator stud, it's the one at the top rear (towards the cab) there's limited access to it, I got frustrated with and the result is what it is. Will work on some alternatives to fix it. As of now I'm having it held with 3 studs.
    5. When you pull the pump out make sure you lay it gear housing down, that will allow access oil to drain, I found that one out the hard way because during my initial installation, excess oil drained over mating surfaces and the sealant, I had to redo the whole thing again.
    6. You’ll need 2.5 quarts of power steering fluid at least, mine was black and nasty so I'm planning to run this new fluid for week or 2 than replace it again.
    7. Power steering lines are kind of pain in the arse to pull out.
    8. Low pressure fuel pump lines are also pain in the rear to slide off the fittings too, limited space is the problem.
    9. Fuel pump electrical plug is very tricky to undo. Gotta pull the black tab up first than push the red locking tab out, once is out press the black tab down and pull the plug out.
    10. Gotta work with the sealant rather quickly as it dry and gets gritty pretty fast.
    11. Don't forget to reinstall 2 dowel pins (if removed) for proper gear alignment, I didn't remove them from the block (1) and the gear housing (1)
    12. International recommends that fuel pump hard lines to be replaced every time you remove them. I didn't follow their recommendation. #1 They're $350 at the dealership. #2 One of them is really ridiculous to access with wrench. #3 I've spoke with technician at the dealership and was told that they didn't do it couple years back but because of liability issues they replace them every time nowadays.
    I'm not telling you to follow my actions, you decide of your own what's the best for you and your truck, once again international recommends replacement.
    13. Take your time and you'll be fine, you can do it!

    I will update this thread accordingly as I know I forgot some things that will help you get ready for this job. 2019-10-19_110022.jpg
     
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2019
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