If you bought a brand new truck tomorrow, which do you prefer as far as the big picture of operating cost over the long haul? I realize autos are supposed to me more fuel efficient, but do they break more often or less? Then again, a manual has a clutch to worry about.
Manual or automatics?
Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by Driver Eight, Oct 29, 2019.
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Eaton 13 manual.
It cost me oil changes only in 1.8 mil miles on last truck and 1.4 mil on this one, both same transmission.
I'm getting great fuel economy, 8.8 mpg right now from Canada to Texas with 30k lbs in the box, 62-64mph plus 25 mph cold front winds pushing me south.Last edited: Oct 29, 2019
FlaSwampRat, snowlauncher, Driver Eight and 1 other person Thank this. -
All depends on the driver. I have never really had a problem out of either one. The Ishift in the Volvo I am driving shifts perfect everytime.
I like running a 13 my self but this I shift is great in traffic, now that I run LA / OC. every day.
I drive a couple of Petes that had auto's and they were ok, far from perfect, would like to go into neutral when your trying to get it to back up.
As far as dependablitiy just depends on how you drive them.FlaSwampRat, D.Tibbitt, Driver Eight and 1 other person Thank this. -
The auto I had in 2001 required the truck to be off a minimum of one hour each 7 days so it can dump it's buffer. If it is never off (Team truck) then it will brick and need a tow to reinstall by software. It also needs to have a manual mode where you can force it to stay in gear all day upgrade or down without additional software time limits etc. It will featuer a method to shift with manually as well. Usually a paddle.
Got about 6.8 ish.
Now I would die with a manual transmission in my hand, either a 13, 15 or 18. It matters not which of the three to me. I am less concerned with fuel mileage going into winter as I am concerned with being able to buy 340 gallons every other day and 100 of reefer without limitation. I always fill at half tanks.
Get about 5.9 give or take one depending on situation. Anything above 12% becomes a fuel per hour burn problem.
There is nothing else expected or wanted in a auto. No collision radar. No satellite support for grades, no company imposed software lockouts or disabling of features etc. None of that.
The manual needs to be in a truck able to use it's full engine rated red line and a jacobs system. Not retarder. Speeds can be governed at 75 which covers 90% of the USA anyway safely. But the engine needs to have it's full range. No idle limits and a APU on there as well as a bunk heater.
Everything else will just have to take care of itself. DEF etc. Its pretty basic on my end, my needs. Unfortunately many trucks out there are not configured this way that I prefer. SO.... my options would be limited.
Now a little bit on me. Pending a important scan I may or may not get back into running medicine to support west coast teams and have been out of trucking since about 2010 more or less. And have had alot of other issues resolved along the way. I talk like i am actually rolling one now, but no. Not yet. Maybe. I already had a lifetime at this trucking stuff so Im old and set in my ways.
Finally but not least, the engine needs to be a minimum of 515 hp. Anything less is not sufficient. IF I get back into it sometime next year or later I know what I want and what the company will have to find a very old iron tractor in the back of the lot for me. And they will be happy to do it when the time comes.Driver Eight and Johny41 Thank this. -
I've had this company mandated auto for 600k now and I don't see it really saving that much fuel.
A good driver with the proper tranny can do just as well.
As far as maintenance/longevity, these are the Eaton 12spd Aecon.
They've done ok.
We have had multiple issues with something going out in them that causes a shifting issue when they're cold.
It'll try to shift 2,4,6,etc but can't get past 4. Hangs up and you can hear the brain clicking and trying to make a connection.
Mine is doing it now.
Sched to go in to the dealer next week for the fix.
Drop the tran.. replace a small simple pin.. put the tran back.
Simple... but a PAIN.
IDK if that's gonna be covered at 600k... I doubt it. It should be.
Its happening to multiple trucks one after another.Tb0n3, FlaSwampRat, D.Tibbitt and 3 others Thank this. -
The US Army switched to automatic transmissions in tanks years ago, partly to make it easier to train new drivers, and partly because they’re more durable. They were tired of replacing clutches!
FlaSwampRat, Driver Eight and x1Heavy Thank this. -
The new tanks coming out in the trophy system and up-armored versions are looking pretty good. However I worry, the Russians developed a hypersonic 6 foot uranium rod on their ternimators designed to take our tanks out at 6 km if they can find one to shoot at from that far.Driver Eight Thanks this. -
I feel you there. When I last had an OTR company job 3 yrs ago, I had the last manual in the fleet, because when I took the job I requested it. They sold it out from under me. The immediate feeling was, I had less control of the new truck with the auto. And in slow traffic it constantly dropped down out of 3rd or 4th into first gear. Even in the manual mode. Gaaaaa! The company mechanics just went hmmm. I hope autos dont do that anymore as they get better. But anyway, as far as cost, I would also be worried about resale value if I did get a 13-18 when I buy. If, I buy. Still debating whether or not to take the plunge. But I need to make some kind of money move away from my local job. Either find a better local job here in Phoenix, or just do what I really want to and buy a truck. Just trying to make all the right moves as far as minimized costs.
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I guess, like 'Heavy mentioned, horsepower is another concern. Not just the power, but the fuel usage.
x1Heavy Thanks this.
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