Replacing frame from sleeper back, on ‘93 W9L

Here's how I would do it.

I would cut it in the middle between two crossmembers.

I would get the sleeve from someplace like PG Adams that is the same tensile strength as the original frame.

I would make the length of the sleeve such that it goes past each crossmember and that you cut it on an angle, bottom longest on a 45. The angle allows it to flex with the frame and prevents it from sharply going from being rigid to where the frame flexes.

You have to cut the crossmembers and shorten them and re weld them back together.

You will need to drill holes and put grade 8 flange bolts on either side of where you are going to weld. Line your frames up put your bolts in and bolt in the cross members also be before you weld.

I would cut it on a straight up and down vertical cut and weld it that way. Sometimes it is suggested to cut the frame in a Z shape. That does give you more area to weld, but I myself think it's more difficult to cut them identically and match them identically.

Use whatever weld that PG Adams recommends. I believe it is Arc weld and they recommend a certain Rod also.

 

@1951 ford

 

The top and bottom 1"-1 1/2" (where the flanges are) need to be cut vertically, then you need to make a 45* cut in the web of the frame.

Tensile strength will dictate the electrode, or filler rod, used. All T-1 steel in my shop gets welded with 11018 stick electrodes. I prefer to TIG the root pass and stick weld out the rest of the joint.

 

Just out of curiosity. What about ordering new frame rails? If the rear of the frame is rusted that bad wouldn’t the front be fairly close in the rust department?

 

No wonder that crap is corrosive as hell. Pun intended. Lol

 

I think it's, what?, $4 -7k (ballpark) for new rails? Get them whatever length you want them with all the holes punched in all the right places. If you're using a different rear suspension than was stock, they'll punch those holes instead.

 

You have 6 bolts on each side of each cross member. (Left side and right 3 toward front of cross member 3 toward the back). Cut it right center of where a cross member is or where your gonna put one. You want 3 bolts in front of the weld and 3 behind. 7018 uphill. No gorilla welds grind the the welds smooth. You will have to shorten your cross members in the center if you sleeve it inside which is best