W900l turns, but does not fire

Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by biglion, Jan 31, 2020.

  1. AModelCat

    AModelCat Road Train Member

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    In a couple spots its minor there. Mostly midway up the ramps, towards the tip. There's a window in the block behind the fuel pump where I can see #3. Dropped 2 tappets in there and they seem to roll just fine. Thing is new cam is pretty pricy at around $3500. Debating getting it spray welded and ground. This engine will honestly be lucky to see 5,000 kilometers a year on average. That was my logic behind just run it and see what happens.
     
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  3. spsauerland

    spsauerland Road Train Member

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    I'd just run it as a hobby truck.
     
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  4. AModelCat

    AModelCat Road Train Member

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    Thoughts on running new roller tappets on a used cam? The sides of my tappets are a little scuffed up. Rollers look to be in great shape though.
     
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  5. spsauerland

    spsauerland Road Train Member

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    I have always been told/read if you replace a roller cam, replace the roller lifters and that new rollers can mate with a used cam. If your lifters have no wear beyond limits, I would mate them back to original location and soak them fully in oil before installing and use new retainer clips. As expensive as the restoration is, no sense on wasting money on parts for insurance on a hobby only truck.
     
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  6. spsauerland

    spsauerland Road Train Member

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    Sorry started to sidetrack thread. Hopefully original poster reports back. The wiring and solenoids are not OEM installed.
     
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2020
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  7. bigguns

    bigguns Road Train Member

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    Late to the party. I have been working to get a N14 Celect started. One independent shop, Cummins dealer, and several others have looked at it. I took it on a challenge and at the moment I am losing.
    I found a man on You Tube that is a Cummins man through and through. He is Terry Chron. His videos are fantastic. Check him out. There is a lot of info in them pertaining to incorrect wiring coming off the starter and not the batteries as it should.

    Also watch the video concerning checking power to the fuel solenoid.
     
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  8. biglion

    biglion Bobtail Member

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    @ KVB and spsauerland
    This week / weekend I hope to find some time again for the Kenworth project. With the great help of this forum I learn much about my truck. Until now I just have been the driver, now I must develop to a (hobby) mechanic. So, sorry for my "simple" questions.
    I will now check the switched and unswitched plus cables going into the ECM. There is no check engine light and no plus on the shut off cable. Please confirm, that the cable shown in the picture must have plus 12V when the key is turned.
    I have your wire diagrams but cannot find the right cables under the truck. In the diagram is shown a frame with A,B,C between Battery and ECM. two plus cables, one minus cable. Can you tell me what this is and how it looks?
    Thanks
     

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  9. spsauerland

    spsauerland Road Train Member

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    Yes, if the ECM is powered up with 12V battery, ground, and key switch battery 12V will be present at the fuel shut-off solenoid. The harness that provides 12v batt and ground is K068-6003-1500. Unfortunately, this diagram isn't in KW archives. A similar diagram would K068-5505 that I uploaded. The harness will come out of the battery box with three 12 gauge wires and meets the Cummins power harness at a three pin Weatherpack connector weatherpack.jpg . 12V ignition is from the 5 amp engine shutdown fuse in fuse panel and connects to Cummins supplied actuator harness. Get a pack of plastic cable ties and good pair side cuts ( I prefer ones that cut the cable ties flush so you don't look like you got in a fight with a cat on your arms) and start following the harness out of the battery box and get it loose so you can inspect it. I like to load test the wires with a headlight bulb to make sure they can carry the current needed for the ECM. Hope this makes sense and helps!
     

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  10. biglion

    biglion Bobtail Member

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    OK. I made the next step - again no success.
    The ECM has three connections - two upper, one lower. I have the cable from the Battery with two Plus and one Minus. Two 10A Fuses, both ok. This cable should go (following the diagram) into the lower connection. But it looks like it goes into the inner upper connection. Fuses in the cabin are all checked, but I can not unplug the connections at the ECM. I have the 9/32 screw loose, but the connection does open. See the pictures. IMG_20200214_111335.jpg IMG_20200214_111335.jpg IMG_20200214_111417.jpg IMG_20200214_111423.jpg
     
  11. Rjarvais

    Rjarvais Bobtail Member

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    if ecm isnt powering up like earlier post there is a fuse usually by battery to protect it and usually jump starting will pop it
     
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