I recently treated my 12v fridge directly to the battery. I have a battery kill switch on the red side so I ran the red to the kill switch and the black to the black. Problem is ever since I did this I’ve been unable to get the temps of the fridge below 41 degrees. When I had it ran to a ac outlet via a Pilot post terminal it had no problem maintaining mid 30’s full of grocery. I’m truly pissed! I thought I would get better results being the Pilot post would burn out every 2 weeks or whenever the fridge needed to run a while to drop the temps. Anybody got any ideas, thx!
12V Fridge wired direct to battery on the truck?
Discussion in 'Experienced Truckers' Advice' started by J.S., Jun 28, 2026.
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3 probably reasons for this. What gauge wire did you use to run the power, how long did you run it, and how did you attach it? The thinner the wire the more resistance it has leading to lower voltage at the fridge. Same with the length. You really want to consult an ampacity chart for that. Terminal connections are notorious for being loose in a few ways. The crimp could be wonky or loose or the terminal itself could be making bad contact due to contamination of any number of surfaces where you connected it. Make sure surfaces are clean, and you didn't stack too many things on the terminal.
For an ampacity chart refer to the power draw sticker on the fridge. It'll likely have watts which gets amps by dividing by the voltage. Fully charged voltage for a battery is around 13.6V so you would take, lets say 200W, and divide 200/13.6=14.7A which can be a significant amount of current if that were the power draw.
Last edited: Jun 28, 2026
Ok big boy, J.S., 86scotty and 2 others Thank this. -
I gave up on 12 volt fridges years ago I’ve been using $100 Walmart bar fridges . I typically get 5 years out of them.. I’m on my second one in 12 year span .. I can leave it on all the time unless I’m home for more than 2/3 days that is ..my factory 12 volts killed batteries in 36 hrs easily.. note I run the fridge on the extra Parksmart batteries.. Is there any chance your post sees higher voltage/amps with truck running?
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I wonder if the difference between 12v battery output and the typical 14v alternator output might be causing this?
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The fridge is drawing to much current, I also use a 110 volt and just run it off the comverter, changed years ago, the connectors on the 12 volt fridges used to overheat and melt.
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Its a current problem not a voltage problem. He could run them stright to the batteries, batteries not switches. The trucks disconnect does not normally handle the full current, but switches a relay, typically.J.S. Thanks this.
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Just finished cleaning the batteries and we’re already down to 35 without washers though. I’ll get some. There was extensive rust in the entire compartment. Seems they can be important for the connection when using thinner terminals. Thx for the comments!
Tb0n3 Thanks this. -
Dont you need an inline fuse in the wire between appliance and battery ?
OldeSkool Thanks this. -
boats especially sailboats run a 12v fridge freezer cool plate that can last decades saltwater environment at that .
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