2006 FL Columbia Detroit 60 14L Codes with Derate

Discussion in 'Freightliner Forum' started by PhonemanDriver, Jun 13, 2019.

  1. PhonemanDriver

    PhonemanDriver Bobtail Member

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    Hello. I have a 2006 Freightliner Columbia with a Detroit Series 60 14L engine. I'm getting a code of SYS 146 SID 001 FAIL 03. Originally this came with a second code of ECU 128 PID 411 FAIL 04 and a Flash Code of 82.

    A little background... I'm new to trucking but I really enjoy it so I bought the truck. I bought a ScanGauge which plugs in and let's me look at various engine info, like MPG, Horsepower, Water Temp, etc. When I look at the Horsepower, it makes out at around 360, far short of the 515 it should have. Originally I assumed that was some computer setting so I took it to the shop and looked and found it was set to 325/515 and had it changed to 515. It was also set for progressive shift and I had that removed. I got better performance but no Horsepower increase. A little math tells me I'm derated to 70%.

    At this point I noticed that the Check Engine light never came on, even at startup. I removed the cluster and found the bulb was removed and when I added one the light came on.

    I have been searching online and as far as I can tell it is something to do with exhaust temp, EGR temp, or the Delta Pressure Sensor. I read something that made me think it was the Delta Pressure Sensor so I put a new one on. The ECU and Flash Code went away when I replaced the Delta Pressure Sensor, as did the Check Engine light. But the Check Engine light comes back on as soon as it starts pulling a load, or the engine brake kicks in downhill. If I'm coasting or stopped, it goes out.

    Also, I have had many wiring issues for lights, bunk fan, etc due to former splices that are corroded and have fixed all I found by soldering and heat shrinking so they are fixed for good, so it might be some sensor wiring harness issue.

    Any advice would be appreciated.

    Thanks,
    D
     
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  3. tnevin225

    tnevin225 Road Train Member

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    Don't go by the HP on the scangauge, it's not accurate. You would need to set it on a dyno to get it accurate, so I wouldn't trust it for trying to diagnose a problem.
     
    Intothesunset Thanks this.
  4. PhonemanDriver

    PhonemanDriver Bobtail Member

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    Okay, but I still have the check engine light and probable derate. Anything on the actual codes? I'm assuming it's the EGR temp sensor or something along that line, but I don't know much at this point.
     
  5. PhonemanDriver

    PhonemanDriver Bobtail Member

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    One other thing, I if I'm climbing a hill and can hold a particular speed but can't accelerate, and then use the ScanGauge to clear codes, the CEL will go off for about 1 second and I feel a surge of power, but the light comes back on and the power drops. It really only lasts for one second, but it confirms in my mind that it is derated.
     
  6. ast26909

    ast26909 Medium Load Member

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    You need to take it to a professional with Detroit DiagnosticLink diagnostic software.
     
  7. Intothesunset

    Intothesunset Road Train Member

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    It's an egr code.
    Throw that egr in the trash if you don't live in comunist ruled land.

    Get the ecm tuned for low nox stuff.
    Set your injectors to .75
    Remove the torque limiter setting.
    Remove the governor setting.
    Get a good cam.
    Bolt in a non wastegate the Schwitzer type.
    And that should be good for a while. Depending on your engine health.

    There is a trick you can do to the barometric sensor. To turn the egr 95% off.
     
  8. PhonemanDriver

    PhonemanDriver Bobtail Member

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    I wish I knew how to do that without paying a mechanic and probably going to do that down the road but I just want to get the problem fixed for now without having to spend a fortune.
     
  9. Intothesunset

    Intothesunset Road Train Member

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    Do you know what resistors are?
    All you need is 2 55k 1/2 ohm resisters.
    It's the same as the "Ugly Fix".
    It would cost about $600 to program your ecm.
    Than you could throw egr valve away.
     
  10. PhonemanDriver

    PhonemanDriver Bobtail Member

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    I have the ugly fix. Runs cooler and more responsive but still derated
     
  11. Intothesunset

    Intothesunset Road Train Member

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    Ok you could have used the resistors and I nly cost 56 cents.
    With out a Detroit code reader I do not know. I never had one yet.
    You need a nexqik diagnostic tool. For around $300.
    Or a laptop with all software for many pre 2010 trucks. Those are $1200 on eBay.
    Check your ugly fix connection.
     
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