My question is; what is the best way to diagnose where the coolant and oil are mixing? My goal is to determine if the fix is relatively low cost, or if I am looking at needing a rebuild, in which case I will likely just sell the truck.
Below is some backstory on the situation if you care to read it.
I recently bought this truck and drove it 140 miles home with no issues, oil looked great, no lights, ran great. Truck has 187k on it, so not a spring chicken. Last weekend my neighbor expressed interest in buying it for his tree service. Before starting it, oil still looked great and at first it ran great. They drove it a 1/2 mile, it stalled, they started it again and headed back, the water in oil message came on, and there is now a green tint on the dipstick and oil in the coolant tank. It does still start, I ran it extremely briefly, so it presumably has good compression, but I am certainly not interested in running it more until I solve this.
I've been told these engines have a tendency for the cylinder liner o-rings to fail, which as I understand it requires an in-frame rebuild. I am also under the impression it could be oil cooler, EGR cooler, or corrosion on the plate that the water pump mounts to.
I have visually inspected the oil cooler and saw no signs of leaks.
Attached are a few photos of the situation.
And yes, I have now learned the MaxxForce engines are piles of ####. But, I'm either going to fix the pile or not, just looking for some advice.
Also, @Heavyd because you seem like a knowledgeable person based on you other replies.
2009 MaxxForce 7.6l Coolant and Oil Mixing
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by itsbroken, May 29, 2023.
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Attached Files:
Last edited: May 29, 2023
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To get oil into the coolant where you can see in the coolant reservoir, I would blame the oil cooler first. Pretty much everything else results in coolant in the oil, but not oil in the coolant.
D.Tibbitt Thanks this. -
Just to clarify, there is enough coolant making it into the oil that the water in oil message came on, and it looks like there could be a little on the dipstick. Would this still align with symptoms of a bad oil cooler? I haven't noticed any big increase in volume of liquid on the dipstick so it doesn't look like a lot of coolant is making it into the crankcase.
Also, is there any way to pressure test the existing oil cooler or otherwise definitively say it is bad before replacing? -
Internationals do not have a water in oil sensor or a message. What they have is a warning lights that says OIL/WATER. This is a combo warning light that shows a problem with either the oil or coolant and this means high oil temp, high water temp or low oil pressure. There is a way to pressure test, but you need the test plates for that. You will have to flush the coolant several times to get all the oil out and it is common to still oil linger because it is almost impossible to get it 100% clean.
bzinger Thanks this. -
Any recommendation on the best way to flush the cooling system so as to remove as much oil as possible? -
Just soap/detergent and water, run the engine up to temp. Soap suds and oil will run to the top so leave a garden hose in the coolant fill neck and let it over spill. If you drain out the bottom, the oil will just find a crevice in the block to sit in until next refill. Once the over flow looks to be mostly just clear water, then drain out the bottom. Repeat this until the draining looks clear. If this looks good and clear, then final fill with normal coolant.
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We used Cascade dishwasher detergent, it worked very well. Dissolve the powder into some hot water and pour it in.
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@Heavyd @Star Rider Thank you both for the guidance.
The truck has been sitting for a couple weeks now. Today I dropped some engine oil and there was no water at all. Oil looks good and does not feel or smell unusual; no water or milky color. I did notice a very slight green hue, would this be indicative of coolant? Photos of the oil are attached.
Since the oil appears good, should I bother doing an oil change after replacing the oil cooler, or just leave it? I also ordered a blackstone test kit.
Is there anything else you would do for diagnosis before replacing the oil cooler and gaskets? Any other helpful tips you can offer on that process are hugely appreciated. I did find this guy's video which will be useful.
Thanks!Attached Files:
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Oil looks normal. Oil is cheaper than an engine, I would not take chances and just change it. Also, the manual says to use new bolts with the new oil cooler element. You need eight M8x20 bolts for that.
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