60 series 14L high egt

Ok the fun continues but I may have resolved some issues here...... One injector siezed solid and snapped the injector rocker end clean off, filled my crankcase with fuek..... Alot of fuel!



Went and bought 6 new injectors from Detroit and 6 new injector cups, they are so easy to change so why the heck not! Rockers were on a 2 week back order so I found one at a salvage yard and had it over nighted.

After doing my oil change and fuel filter and overhead I started it and she ran way better but fuel pressure was still low, I've ruled out all other issues so I drove a hour back to town and bought a new combo check valve/regulator. I know many have said they will hard start if they are bad...... They are wrong! That's if the check valve goes, if the spring gets weak it'll have low fuel pressure....... That's what mine did, I installed it and fired it up and I went from 10psi at 600rpm to 16psi. Detroit spec is 17psi so I'd say I'm pretty bang on.



I just bought a new one for $300cad because I already bought everything else new, the regulator looks like it can be opened and cleaned so I'll try on my old one tomorrow for fun. Was a pain to reach the back of the head to swap but a couple scratched arms and I'm good...... I'll update with how she drives and if it fixes any other issues as I'm about to hit the road and pull a savage hill.

Tag for future people looking at this issue: 2006 Detroit 60 series ddec v low fuel pressure

 

This is the same information I've heard and read over and over and it is wrong apparently..... my truck fired up instantly all the time yet had 8 - 10 psi less fuel pressure then it should have with a brand new pump, injector, cups and filter.

just because the check valve is working fine and the ball is not crudded up, does not mean the regulator section isn't weak.

 

So I guess a update is in order...

truck runs like never before! power upon power and it runs so smooth. I've verified no air in fuel return, I've isolated every aspect of the air system and fixed one small boost leak. my air loss while testing the entire system was loss through the exhaust going through either a open exhaust valve during pressuring up or something weak internal in the engine. turbo has side shaft play and I can get the cold side fins to scrape a but on the housing.

I get 33psi of boost on hard pulls, peak at 35psi at 1800rpm+ while pulling hard. I do remember that this 177287 had less booat then my 171702 fresh out the box.

Pyro is still hotter than I'd like but manageable. it'll hit 1000 empty or loaded no problem but only goes to 1100 on hard pulls, it'll start climbing to 1200 on long steep grades if I let it drop below 1600rpm but I can keep it in check.

45000lbs empty 120000lbs loaded

at this point I'm gonna say worn valve or weak compression is my issue.... gonna trade out this turbo but doubt that'll change anything. going back to the 171702 for now and gonna start piecing together a rebuild kit for when the time comes.

 

just a update, center section of my exhaust manifold cracked yet again...... still not sure of what's causing my high egt but this is starting to tick me off....

 

Problem solved.

Turbo blew after exhaust cracked yet again, the turbo had been acting up for a while and was my likely culprit.

New manifold, brand new 171702 and I removed all components off the truck.

Highest egt I've seen was 950 degrees now! I'm very happy its finally fixed but surprised this engine hasnt blown up after running so hot for so long......

Decided to use the egr oil supply and return for a amsoil bypass filter.



Thanks everyone for the help through this ordeal.