Advice, please?

Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by brsims, Jul 2, 2019.

  1. brsims

    brsims Road Train Member

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    Here's a stupid question for y'all!

    2006 motor. Conventional or synthetic oil? And why?
     
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  3. brsims

    brsims Road Train Member

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    Thank you, sir!

    Now to prove I can run my truck more profitably than my carrier can, ha ha!
     
  4. x1Heavy

    x1Heavy Road Train Member

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    It does not matter. It should not provided the oil can stand up to the temperatures it requires upgrade and at the pressure required of the engine.

    I have pretty much without fail dumped gallons of Rotella T into most all of my trucks. and with two exceptions don't recall a engine casualty based on this or that oil.

    If you find your engine is not right in terms of pressure, temperature and so on when working hard, dump that oil. Pick another.
     
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  5. Humblepie

    Humblepie Pontificator

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    I run conventional rotella 15-40. I’ve always ran that in every truck I’ve ever had. My dad ran it in his trucks. If it ain’t broke don’t fix it. The rotella does actually have more zinc than any of the others. Zinc is good for an engine.
     
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  6. Elroythekid

    Elroythekid Road Train Member

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    I agree...but. this is still an EGR engine. The ISX is not the best engine, n14 different story.
    If your spending $26 on the truck and willing to spend $30 on a drop in, why not a 12 or 13 glider kit with a pre-emission 60 series or n14 or 6nz? I'm thinking $56 would get you there?
    Then you would have a money maker.
     
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  7. spyder7723

    spyder7723 Road Train Member

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    That's got to be the price of a short block. A couple years ago i looked into a remanned 12.7 and it was 16k for a short block. 26k for a long block. I can't believe an isx is cheaper today than a detroit 12.7 was 4 years ago.
     
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  8. Humblepie

    Humblepie Pontificator

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    It’s not
     
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  9. Midwest Trucker

    Midwest Trucker Road Train Member

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    Ask them for the name and number to the guy who sold it to them. Pretty easy and simple.

    It’s pretty obvious your over the moon excited. I’d just chill a little if you can. Yeah you don’t want to do it like others and then go under, well you also don’t want to spend all your money before you even start and go under. Find a good middle ground.

    Oh, and just do the #### dyno.
     
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  10. Elroythekid

    Elroythekid Road Train Member

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    I'm on truck #5 that I have owned. New used pre-emission and emission.
    Someday you can get a big kw or Pete whatever. But for the first one you one with this criteria;
    CHEAP PARTS AVAILABLE ANYWHERE INCLUDING JUNKYARDS
    ABILITY TO SERVICE IT AT ANY SHOP SO YOU CAN STAY AWAY FROM STEALERS
    (Sorry for the caps my bad)
    Good fuel economy
    Something like this is a money maker.
    Glider kit newer cab lower miles no EGR

    https://www.truckpaper.com/listings/trucks/for-sale/33419259/2014-freightliner-columbia-120
    I've had em all and went back to a similar truck. My maintenance is under .10c a mile most quarters. Cheapest truck to fix and maintain hands down. And ALL trucks break.
    No need to rebuild or install a crate motor. This should be good til 1.2- 1.5 mil with GOOD regular maintenance before needing an inframe.
    Buy it, go trucking.
    There are lots around so you can find a good clean 1 owner. Same money as you say your willing to spend for a older truck that may,sorry, will need much more than just a motor. Detroit s60 is way more reliable than an isx, proven no debate on that. N14 Cummins, different story. That's also a great engine.
    My .05 cents.
     
    Last edited: Jul 6, 2019
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  11. brsims

    brsims Road Train Member

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    Cheap parts available anywhere---check(ish). Cummins are a bit more expensive to fix than Detroits, but cheaper than Cats.

    Ability to service anywhere---CHECK! Especially if anywhere includes my own personal driveway. As long as I don't have to actually yank the block out (right now, at least), I have the ability to do the overwhelming majority of mechanical work. Need a bit of help on electronics, but that is due more to lack of patience than anything else. If cost were an issue, I can get down there and chase shorts with the rest.

    Good fuel economy---check. Fuel economy comes from the gearing and the loose nut behind the wheel.

    Additionally, mine is shorter in wheelbase, lower, and lighter. All of which is VERY handy with what I do and the freight/trailer I pull.

    And in the end, I LIKE this truck. She's got a very good "feel" when driving. I know people say you can't let emotions get in the way, but I also know that when I bought old cars that I didn't like, or just felt off somehow, those cars cost me more money than they were worth. It's a gut feeling, but it has always worked for me in the past. This truck is worth putting a little TLC into and putting to work. I'm comfortable driving this truck, and I do believe she's a solid money maker.

    I've gotten away from the truck for a few days now, and gone over absolutely everything from the inspection and test drive in my mind hunting for any little minor thing that could lead to a problem later. I got nothing.

    In my honest opinion, she's gonna pass the OA and blowby with flying colors, I'm gonna get the ABS issue fixed and recharge the A/C and put her right to work. Everything else comes down to, as you yourself I believe, pointed out. Overthinking.

    Worst comes to worst, everybody here will get the satisfaction of delivering very well deserved "I told you so!"s :biggrin_2559:
     
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