Air valve - but not sure what it is?

Discussion in 'Kenworth Forum' started by Hanadarko, Sep 16, 2012.

  1. bender

    bender Road Train Member

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    That other valve was probably the valve the last customer needed so he thought you needed that one too.

    The valve they sent you is for spring brake application (anti-compounding). I doubt you have spring brakes on your steer axle, LOL.
     
    Hanadarko Thanks this.
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  3. Hanadarko

    Hanadarko Independent Owner/Operator

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    Still annoying. Of course I still have to redrill the mount holes. I sliced off the old bolts with a drimel but since they reside in a cavity
    I cant them out 100% unless I could have removed the nuts...
     
  4. bender

    bender Road Train Member

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    It seems like as soon as you let your guard down and trust in someone they trip you up.
     
  5. Hanadarko

    Hanadarko Independent Owner/Operator

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    This valve is available from FleetPride or TruckPro for $35.
    KW charged me $75 for the -wrong- valve.

    It's really in a crappy spot to mount/drill....but it is what it is.

    :biggrin_2554:
     
  6. bender

    bender Road Train Member

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    You can always reinstall the original, at least it still works. Strap it down and prepare for a better day with correct valve in hand.
     
  7. oilfieldtrash

    oilfieldtrash Light Load Member

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    Just pull the old one apart, clean it, inspect the rubber disc. If it looks good just put back together, if it doesnt, well you could get the the one out of the QR-1C that Kw sold you before you take it back. Payback for wasting your time.
     
  8. Hanadarko

    Hanadarko Independent Owner/Operator

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    Since my original valve is broken, there really isnt anything I can scarf from the new valve.
    It works - just that the mount tabs rotted off - same thing happened to the one on the rear of the tractor last spring.

    The problem is the nuts/bolts for this are really hard to get at. The nuts sit in a channel (between 2 pieces of cross brace) behind the radiator
    and while I was able to drimel them flush, I cannot remove them still, due to their length and the nuts on the inside.

    I think the only real way would be to be able to remove the nuts, presuming they hadn't rotted as they did.

    So today, I am going to drill 2 new 11/32" holes 1.5" apart as close as I can to the old ones. I think one of the air lines
    has slack so I will move it in the opposite way of that line.
     
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