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Not a good day yesterday for Freightliner.
Got towed back to the yard, 300 bucks.
New rear section coming today, 2500 bucks.
Lucky I could read the tag on this 700,000 mile rear.
Being an owner-operator is great; until it isn't.
And some days, the bear eats you
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by rolls canardly, May 27, 2026.
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BoxCarKidd, Magoo1968, Speedy356 and 7 others Thank this.
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Yup, i feel your pain. Many many times over as well. Stay strong man, least its a fairly simple fix as these things go.
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fairly simple fix, he said.
I got new gear unit up on a transmission jack,
tipped it in with the jack tilt mechanism,
got top two LONGER studs started to align everything,
and struggled three hours to get the thing into housing???
Every time I tightened any bolt, in any sequence,
it tilted the unit out of being parallel and square
to the face of the housing??? WTF???
I would think if the unit is hanging from two studs
and you tightened two opposing bolts it would suck it in?
friend of mine said "try lifting on yoke with Jack to align?"
Yeah, sounds good. No way. I just came in the house.
Tomorrow is another day. Suggestions, anyone? -
Sorry mate didnt mean to jinx ya. Was thinking it would be simple compared to some of the skitchy #### ive done to my last 2 trucks. As for a diff....i got nothing. never done one. @AModelCat or @OLDSKOOLERnWV may know, they have been around the mechanical block way further then i have.rolls canardly Thanks this.
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No jinx there, just as you said, it should be simple and straight forward.
Only thing I can come up with is the CNC operator guy machining the housing
forgot to put a 45 deg. chamfer on the dia. to drop into housing.
If it had a lead in or taper, it would drop right in.
as it is, I have it in place and can't tell.
Tomorrow, all the bolts come out, and just top studs in place.
Then the struggle resumes anew.
Again someone who has "been there, done that" can chime in.
What am I missing here? -
Sounds like when i did my transmission on my 579 and they machined the new brackets a half inch off center and decided to just drill the bracket holes into a U shape instead of getting new brackets....which caused the whole thing to be misaligned and mangle a drive shaft at high torque.
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Looks like it's got a locker on it. Pretty sure you have to have it engaged to install the whole unit into the housing on most diffs.
Highly recommend pulling the hubs if it was a catastrophic failure as the debris and contamination can make its way out there and wreak havoc on wheel bearings and seals.blairandgretchen, rolls canardly, jaffles and 1 other person Thank this. -
I found two shiny spots on the diff. housing where it contacts the housing.
I'm pretty sure this is my interference here. Has to be dead straight to go in.
I was going to pull the bearings to clean everything out and air blow dry.
I got 8 cans of brake clean. Not sufficient?
(Thx, by the way.)
I've done car rears, and dually rears, but nothing this big.jaffles and OLDSKOOLERnWV Thank this. -
Shiny spots are on curbside bearing mount,
there is a machined radius
matching a similar sized diameter in housingLast edited: May 27, 2026
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I would try studs at 3 and 9 o'clock. Or 12, 3,6 and 9. Position the edge of the jack pad at the lip on the bottom of the differential if necessary.
"Every time I tightened any bolt, in any sequence,
it tilted the unit out of being parallel and square
to the face of the housing?"
May need to tighten in smaller increments such as 1/4 turn on a bolt on one side then a 1/4 on the other side.rolls canardly Thanks this.
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