I'm about to put a new clutch in my truck. ISX15/Eaton 10-speed. EZ Pedal. I've got the clutch, and the installation kit that includes new input shaft, bearings, bushings, etc.
Couple questions -
1. Other than a tranny jack, are there any specialty tools I might end up needing that the regular Joe might not have?
2. If I know how to keep the clutch brake safe, and I'm the only one that drives the truck, is there really any benefit in sourcing a two-piece brake? If you know how to drive, and what destroys the brake, will they last as long as the clutch?
3. I've put a clutch or two in pickups in my day. Is there anything so different about this that's gonna put me in a bind?
4. Normally you bolt the pressure plate to the flywheel with an alignment tool. But I've read in an Eaton, you can stack it all on the tranny, and then you only need to line up to the pilot bearing. Have you ever done it that way, and is it easier?
5. How are you guys barring over an ISX? Breaker bar on the crank pulley, or is there a better way?
6. If this were a pickup, I'd replace the rear main seal. Same deal on a semi, or leave it unless it's leaking? If the crank is grooved, are "Speedy Sleeves" a thing on these big engines?
Clutch R&R questions
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1) It all depends on the truck I suppose. There really shouldn't be what I consider special tools to do the job. A heavy duty truck transmission jack is absolutely required. You should be able to rent one. I've been able to until I bought my own.
2) Even though I know how to use a clutch brake, I have managed to wear a couple out in the past. It sure is easier removing and replacing a two piece. I do a ton of stop and go city driving, and I have other drivers, so I always use a two piece.
3) There can be way more stuff to remove depending on the truck. On one of mine it requires air tanks removal. You'll have air lines to your shifter, be those aren't too hard to keep track of.
4) I've always bolted mine to the flywheel. I use a floor jack to lift it up into place.
5) ISX is barred over through the face of the water pump. Driver's side, down low, 3/4 square drive. Google it.
6) I don't touch non-leaking rear mains. That's just me.
You should resurface the flywheel when doing a clutch. I'll admit that the last two I've done on my trucks I haven't and I've been fine. Clutches weren't worn out, just broke other pieces. The flywheel is heavy, so be prepared. The weight isn't the issue so much as the narrow clearance and opportunity for disaster on your fingers.
Put the clutch on the flywheel. It’s easier to line up and you know it is installed on flywheel correctly. The engine block is mounted solid and will not move. It will add way too much weight to the trans and make it ackward and uncomfortable to get back into place.
Go with two piece brake so you won’t have to pull trans again or torch out to replace again just in case it goes bad.
If the seals arn’t leaking I wouldn’t disturb them.
If you can’t get access to a trans jack You can use a good 2 ton floor jack to do the trans but you need to make a cradle plate in place of the lift saddle that you can ratchet strap the trans too.
I disagree with installing a 2 piece brake with a new clutch. Install the Eaton 1-piece and grease it when you put it in. Good driver and the brake should outlast the clutch. Its not terrible to cut it out and install a 2 piece if you need to later.
If your old input shaft is not in terrible shape it will suffice for your dummy shaft when bolting up the clutch.
After you get your flywheel resurfaced, take the time to tap all of the clutch mounting holes in the flywheel. If you install the clutch bolts into old holes you will have issues and bolts wont torque correctly due to rust buildup. Also it will clean the metal shavings out of the threads from machining.
You will need good lock ring pliers for the input shaft bearing retaining ring. Its a bugger without them.
Snap Ring Pliers | SRP4 | Snap-on Store
Please keep us informed on how it goes. I admire you or anyone for taking this job on.
I did one in a cabover (an eon ago) with all the room in the world. It still was an azzwhip.
FWIW, a buddy and his Dad did a clutch and for the life of them couldn't get it to adjust properly. Turns out they were given the wrong clutch so check your parts.
Best of luck!
I couldn't agree more. 1 piece, 2 piece is a emergency repair.
If flywheel is on the ground, it gets a rear main. All the work is done. Torque clutch to flywheel, then install trans. You have install kit. Good move. Great time to R+R starter just incase. Shifter bushing good idea. Rear engine mounts too. Allways check driveline and cooler. Cheaper now than later.
I'm with @Goodysnap on the one piece clutch brake. The eaton ones have a torque limiting feature and will slip if the pedal is mashed to the floor while the truck is moving.
You can put the clutch on the trans first and then install, its easier to line up the shaft that way and goes in alot better. Drawback is you have to bolt the clutch up through the inspection plate and require a 2nd person to rotate the engine while you do it. Make sure the clutch is sitting right on the flywheel when it torques down and not up on the lip of the flywheel.
If you put the clutch on the engine its easier to torque and verify its sitting correctly. You also do not need a second person to rotate the engine, and if you bolt the clutch up with the adjuster facing down you do not need to rotate the engine at all. The drawback is it can be a bit of a ##### getting the trans lined up and stabbed in. Keep watching the bellhousing gap and verify the trans is level left/right and up/down.
Cross shaft bushings should be reamed to fit but a flap wheel on a die grinder works in a pinch.
Friction plates on the clutch should be stamped which way to go on.
Flywheel bolts are a 12 point 24mm if i remember correctly.
ISX is turned over on the air compressor drive gear. Older ones you have to remove the oil fill tube, newer ones have a rubber plug in the front cover you remove.
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