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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;Strange77, post: 3073948, member: 72674&quot;]Everything you said is more than justifiable for you to be angry, but at some point you need to find one shop and perferably one technician to work on it if you havent already done so.&nbsp; Hopefully the shop and tech you find are well educated and expirienced with the engine.&nbsp; But from what i&#039;ve seen as soon as parts are being guessed at its probably time to leave.&nbsp; And that&#039;s the hard thing to do here in a forum, anyone who gives you a recommendation its not a gaurantee its nothing more than a &quot;hey this worked for me hopefully it works for you&quot;.&nbsp; Myself personally I do not claim to be great but I do happen to see a lot of things differently and have figured out many a problem that has ended up in the shop I work for because it&#039;s been to all other shops in my area.&nbsp; I can state for a fact there has only been 2 units I could not figure out in my 6 years expirience.&nbsp; But also those trucks ive had in front of me where I was able to operate the unit listen to it and monitor what the ECM is reading and doing under varying percents of load.&nbsp; Now I&#039;m on here to just give feed back and what I think your or anyones issue may be.&nbsp; </p><p><br /></p><p>Yes the &quot;Fake Actuator&quot; is a troubleshooting tool, thats not what its really called but that&#039;s what it looks like.&nbsp; And what it does is it takes the place of the metering actuator so when you crank the engine it verifies the condition of the check balls in the injector.&nbsp; What the bubbles in the water show is that compression is comming up through the injector and in to the fuel system.&nbsp; There should be no compression gases coming up in to the injector.&nbsp; And the #1 sign that this is happening is when you turn the engine off with the key they engine continues to run for longer than normal.&nbsp; its not a full run like an idle would sound but more like it stumbles to a stop.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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