Detroit throwing me for a loop

Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by Toaster, Dec 16, 2019.

  1. Toaster

    Toaster Bobtail Member

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    Dec 16, 2019
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    Working on a 91 Volvo with a series 60 Detroit ddec II. Initially the truck ran 30 seconds an died, swapped out the coolant level sensor and the truck ran great for half the day and died completely. Traced it to a fuel line and repaired only to have a return problem of running 30 seconds before it died out again. Checked the oil pressure sensor and found the harness bare and wires crossing. Patched the wires and truck ran great, for about 3 hours before diving and refusing to start. Towed it to the shop and after some searching found bad batteries. Replaced the batteries and the 30 second run time issue reoccurred. Pulled the wire harness to the sensors and repaired several questionable wires, and the problem continued. Replaced the oil pressure switch and no change. I’m out of ideas, can anyone point me in a new direction? Any help appreciate, thank you.
     
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  3. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    Make sure the low coolant pigtail doesn’t have a short in one of the wires. They sell a pigtail about a foot long. They tend to break from movement, usually from fan blowing it around. It should throw a code if bad, same as if it’s low, # 43
     
  4. Toaster

    Toaster Bobtail Member

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    Dec 16, 2019
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    I’ve checked the pigtail and it’s good, unfortunately the ecm has several codes stored in it and my scan tool is out for repair so I can’t clear them to see what comes back, but I’ve checked both the oil and coolant sensors and repaired the harnesses and replaced both sensors. The truck still keeps shutting down like it’s sensing a problem.
     
  5. x1Heavy

    x1Heavy Road Train Member

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    You need to find out what those codes are.

    Your wiring harness is next. Without those stored codes telling you what the problem is you are at square one.
     
  6. thejudges69

    thejudges69 Light Load Member

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    Aug 22, 2015
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    You should check the hot and ground to the engine from the battery cables, make sure they are clean and not broke. Also inspect the 6 wire plug on the ecm. It is the plug in the middle in the row of plugs closest to the frame rails. There are hots and grounds in that plug. Tug from the backside and make sure they are tight. Also list what codes are present. Stop throwing parts at it til you properly diagnose it.
     
  7. Toaster

    Toaster Bobtail Member

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    Dec 16, 2019
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    Pulled the power supply harness to the ecm and cleaned all contacts, as well as broke down the other wire harnesses (except the injector harnesses) and checked each wire in them, repairing damaged wires. Here’s a list of codes 12, 14, 16, 34, 35, 36, 43, 44, 45, 46, 54, 58, & 61. Not sure which of the codes are still active and what is stored
     
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