Should I go to the effort of taking the nuts off the studs and redoing it "properly"? Or is that just one of those things that you ignore?
Should I torque those or just gun them tight?
Drive axle studs
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by DDlighttruck, Apr 28, 2017.
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Leave them off. You're good.
Bakerman Thanks this. -
Most will disagree, but just hammer them down with air impact. They will be fine. If your going to go thru the trouble of trying to get the nuts loose, just buy all new
Volvo8873, snowman_w900, Oxbow and 2 others Thank this. -
I would take the nuts off and clean everything. 1/2" impact has worked for me for 20 years but I know a torque wrench is the proper method. Silicone will work just fine if you don't have the paper gasket.
Oxbow and DDlighttruck Thank this. -
I'd put them back in like that but I'd also put some loctite on them so that maybe next time they'll come apart properly
snowman_w900 Thanks this. -
Or just get new studs and nuts. Not like they are that expensive.
1951 ford and Pedigreed Bulldog Thank this. -
New studs are $25 each. I don't consider that cheap. Didnt price the nuts.
Thanks guys. Sounds like either way is fine but it's better to put just the studs in.Last edited: Apr 28, 2017
snowman_w900 and Oxbow Thank this. -
I've only had that happen once. I just put some red loctite on the studs and put it back together. No issues.
Ezrider_48501, snowman_w900, Oxbow and 1 other person Thank this. -
The nuts are seized or very tight on the stud. Basically they are cap screws or bolts now. I would not bother with removing them, and they are fine to reuse. I would wire wheel the threads clean and blow out the holes and hammer them in with an impact gun.
snowman_w900, AModelCat, Oxbow and 2 others Thank this. -
Use silicone... they won't stay tight if you use a paper gasket. Easy does it though, just a thin layer. You don't want it in the bearings.
snowman_w900, Oxbow and DDlighttruck Thank this.
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