Erratic cooling

Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by bigguns, May 14, 2019.

  1. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    Those air pockets can be hard to get rid of. But if you left vent on top tube open and cap off, ran it for a good while, probably no air. It should show up as a little extra pressure when removing cap, or cracking the vent, although it can get trapped, usually works it’s way to top.I think you need a new radiator,mines been doing the same thing for a few years. I flushed it with rust remover from harbor freight. Bought some time. If the side aren’t rusted out too bad, you can take them off and rod it out. Chances are the corrosion is right there at the ends of the fins.Will need new gaskets, or make your own.
     
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  3. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    Bad Air crompressor would put air into system,making it push coolant, which you stated isn’t happening.
     
  4. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    Mine has been fine so far, once I’m running in 80+ weather, I’ll need the fan. 90+ and I’ll have to stop on long pulls and let it cool down, then proceed. Avoid letting it shutdown, while hot, Best if possible just get a new radiator. Before it gets too hot outside.
     
  5. wore out

    wore out Numbered Classic

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    180 at the top and 144 at the bottom is a little too far spread for me. I like to see about 15 degrees difference. I would consider having the core rodded out if you have a good radiator shop to use. They usually can tell you by looking if they think its rotten and needs one before they start on it
     
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  6. spsauerland

    spsauerland Road Train Member

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    Old rule of thumb on air heat exchangers is 15-40 degree drop. If less than 15, usually an air flow problem. If above 40 you have an internal restriction. I like to see same as @wore out, around 15-20 degree drop.
     
  7. bigguns

    bigguns Road Train Member

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    OK. I'm glad I posted the temperature differences. I had no idea of the correct number. I said earlier this morning I could watch the thermostats working. NOW for the kicker.

    Today at 80 degrees the dang thing worked flawlessly. Temperature was very slow to climb on a long pull, crest the hill and the temp. would ease back to 190 without the fan. When I needed the fan, it wouldn't let the temp. get up to 205.

    I should have pulled over and gotten the temps. off the radiator top and bottom. Today was the exact reverse of yesterday. I try to do that tomorrow IF all goes well.
     
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  8. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    Something I noticed, is when the Jakes are on the temp drops quicker. I don’t enough to explain why. It’s besides the point really. Since their only on after topping a hill. But give it a try, see if you notice what I did.
     
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  9. BoxCarKidd

    BoxCarKidd Road Train Member

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    Thanks everyone I need to wright some of that down. It takes very little air to cavitate a pump. It is also easy to over look as it may only happen when it is building pressure.
     
  10. BoxCarKidd

    BoxCarKidd Road Train Member

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    Builds no fire in the hole when the exhaust valve opens BTDC. My minds eye can see the but never noticed that.
     
  11. bigguns

    bigguns Road Train Member

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    Day #3. All cool this morning. Had to run the fan at times this afternoon. When the fan was on it kept the temperature from getting to 210. After cresting a hill it would cool itself. Coming home empty I had to turn on the fan once to pull the temperature back down. Frustrating.
     
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