Fld120 expansion valve removal

Do yourself a favor. Pull the evap with it connected. Then inspect it, clean the fins and reinstall. You will thank me later.

 

If u went thru all that trouble get a new evaporator,its $270.just removed one and the housing was full of dirt,its was the original 20years old one

 

brake line wrenches

 

Good luck on the sleeper. My Lines were stuck so bad, had to cut them off, and weld new fittings. I had gotten 1 off, but ruined the fitting, out of round, it wouldn't thread back in. Definately a line wrench, Pb blaster, and maybe some heat, should help.Depends on how rusty lines are. I took the whole heater box out. I hear a crows foot comes in handy, on the expansion valve/ evaporator, if inside the bunk.Its almost easier to take the whole box out. Only 1 bolt in the back, that’s a problem. I left it out, not really needed. On the front box cover, I cut a small piece out of the dash, it still gets hidden with the bottom dash cover back on. One screw in upper left side of the evaporator/ Heater core cover, left it out, again not really needed anyway. Makes access easier next time, also. It’s almost easier to pull both the evaporator, and the heater core out of the dash together, to keep from damaging either, they’re pretty tight. The insulation? I call it catgut. It’s a common thing, never been able to find it though. I reuse it best as I can, especially insulating the bulb on the valve. Along with some a/c insulation tape.

 

There’s really no need to take them out. Why risk damaging them. You can clean the fins good, with blower motor out, most of the blockage if any will be on the outside of evaporator. With blower motor out, you can get your hand in there, cleaning it. Brakekleen, or degreaser, finish off with some all purpose Lysol, kills bacteria, good lemon smell, rinse with a harden hose.

 

3.7 lbs= 55oz. 5, 12oz. cans= 60oz. Less than 10% overcharge. Worst case scenario. Changing cans, purging air from line each time. Close enough.

 

I use Loctite PST thread sealant on the fittings. The threads are prone to corrosion and don't need to be super tight to seal as the sealing is done by the O-rings.