been doing a lot of electrical tests with a friend here who has an 09 Pete 387 with the Cummins. We have insite and have been doing multiple resistance checks, voltage checks, sensor checks, ground checks, data monitoring and etc...
The issue is, there’s 12v power on the fan solenoid supply with the truck running. Then at 1500rpm the voltage drops to 9v, tested by using the power probe tool. This causes the engine to fan to run and if he’s going down the road it will stay on because t’s logging code 0245 fan circuit low voltage. Does anyone got any ideas on this one? We’ve already done the trouble shooting tree for the fault code, testing for internal short on the solenoid, short to ground, pin to pin short on the harness and etc. the solenoid did pretty much fail, testing right at/over 3ohms. He’s getting a new one tomorrow along with some more sensors.
Anybody got ideas or experience on this one?
Thanks
voltage drop on the fan solenoid supply... causing the fan to stay on
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by HopeOverMope, Oct 15, 2018.
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First, check which type of fan clutch is programmed into the engine. There are two types, variable and on/off. If variable is programmed, you will get different voltages, actually different PWM duty cycles, but with some meters it will read lower voltage. You should have an on/off type. Second, if it is programmed correctly, watch your ecm battery voltage as you increase rpm to see if the ecm itself is starving for power and showing lower voltage.
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It is The on/off type thats programmed in the ecm. He did just put a new fun hub on, but I tried the other settings like ‘variable no speed sensor” & etc just to make sure it wasn’t another type of hub. The other fan program types caused the fan to be on non stop with code 0245 active at low idle.
I tried checking for resistance and grounding at the ecm power cable to help eliminate the starving for power issue. I know once corrosion sets in it can really clog things up.Last edited: Oct 15, 2018
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Yes, watch it in data monitoring. When I check ecm powers and ground, I will disconnect the main power connector at the ecm, and then jump the power terminal to a headlight bulb. This is a good way to load test the wires. If the headlight is nice and bright, you have a good wire. Testing for power with a normal little test light, or digital multi-meter will only tell you it has 12 volts, but if the wire is damaged it can't support any amps which a meter or small test light will not draw much anyway, so they would show it is good when in fact it may not be.
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