Is anybody still doing a 10-15K oil change?

Not sure which number of Donaldson extended life filter you got, but I use the ELF 3998 on my engine and can get them for $20 a piece here when I need to... http://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/donaldson-elf3998/lube-filter-extended-life-p-w26-elf3998

The place where I get my oil changed, Housby Truck Lube in Des Moines, charges the same for standard Donaldsons or extended life version. I have had great results with the Donaldson extended life lube filters on both my previous ISX and the Detroit I have now. I didn't necessarily double my drain interval as Donaldson suggests, but I do take it out a little longer than some. I also use a bypass filter. Cleaner oil is good oil.

 

Polaris labs.

 

with delvac I used less oil than rotella. with delo I use less oil than delvac. plus it's on sale over $1.50 a gal cheaper than delvac right now at wally's. delo looks like thicker oil. I have better higher oil pressure for longer period of time with delo. at 9000 miles delvac would have me at just under 50 psi at road speed 65 m.p.h. delo at the same miles would have my oil at just above 50 psi.

 

Yeah, the extended life filter... 3998... I was looking at the 60k service interval.... seems like a pretty long time for a couple of full flows...

 

Guess it would depend on if you were also using a bypass filter unit. The bypass will take a lot of load off of the full flow filters and they will go a lot longer. My comfort level will not allow me to go 60,000 on an oil change anyway, even though I do use a bypass filter. I just can't get over the 30,000 mile hurdle, even though oil samples have shown can go longer. Each has their own comfort level.

 

I heard of a fleet who changed their oil based on fuel usage, which takes idling, hard or easy running etc... into account. Sorry I don't know any more details.

 

When I cut apart an oil filter I first punch a hole in it when it is hot and I am draining the oil. It is not a race to get to it, I put it in a vise and use a high speed cutter to cut the top off. Every engine has a magnetic plug so iron will be on it I am looking for brass and aluminum in the filter paper.
We had the Cat filter cutting tool, it worked great on Cat aluminum filters it is junk after one idiot uses it on a steel filter.
Just a thought!

 

Whatever your manual says anything else is a waste of money. 10000 mile oci is $379 x 50 for half million miles u could buy a brand new engine . There is no way in hell ur engine will fail at half a million miles if u follow owner manual recommendation which is usually 15,000 for severe conditions 25,000 normal and 35000 light duty so if u are 80,000 lbs or less and average 6.5 mpg 25,000 is perfect. Just grease the truck every 6,000 miles and ur good to go 800,000 to 1.2 million miles without overhaul. And if anything fails it's not gonna be because of ur oil. And never use Lucas I think Mobil and she'll know what they r doing.

 

Even if one does the shorter oil changes, costs can be reduced significantly. Buying filters wholesale, buying oil at commercial, wholesale pricing, etc. It is a little melodramatic to think that an oil change, complete with chassis lube should be anywhere near $379 a pop if one is using any business sense. That is part of good business also... getting the best prices on products you need. Sure, many oil changes are done earlier than necessary. But there are so many variables to the correct interval, with oil sampling being the most effective method of determining the interval. Then we have things crop up that were not problems in the past. One is the increased levels of biodiesel being incorporated into fuels now. Not usually a problem, but can actually contribute to higher levels of fuel dilution in oil. Why? Because there is always some fuel that gets by the rings. Normally, traditional diesel has a lower vaporization rate than biodiesel, so much of what gets by the rings will vaporize and either be vented or returned to the engine via PCV systems on the newest diesels. But, Bio has higher vapor and flash points, and can accumulate in the oil, thereby diluting the viscosity of the oil. TBN may remain fine, wear metals may remain fine, but viscosity is being lowered to minimum tolerances for the engine design.

I really have no problem with some who may change at under 15,000 miles. As long as why there are doing it is based on sound reasoning. No two situations are the same. Manuals are strictly guidelines and not commandments written on stone. And costs even for more frequent oil changes can be reduced substantially if one just uses sound business practices in how they get their oil, filters, etc. In some cases, doing the job yourself and saving even more. I have gotten lazier in my older age, so I don't want to do the oil changes any more. But I have my own oil, I buy in bulk, that I bring to the party. I have my own filters I get at wholesale pricing. And all I pay for is some labor time for my favorite place to change the oil. My total costs are almost over almost half of what you quoted.

There is no blanket "perfect" interval that applies to all situations. Each situation, engine, operating conditions, fuel quality, oil choices, etc, etc, is different. Obviously, there is no "perfect" interval that applies, in general, to most folks.