Looking to buy a Cascadia with 500k on it.

Discussion in 'Freightliner Forum' started by monicajonas, Mar 12, 2023.

  1. monicajonas

    monicajonas Bobtail Member

    Jan 19, 2023
    Hi, my name is Monica and I am new here. I was working for a company for 6 years now and they always gave me a new truck, but I saved a little money to work for my own and want to get a used truck.
    I am looking to buy a Cascadia with 450-600k miles on it, 2016-2020. Automatic. I see prices are about 50% less than a year ago, so hope its not the worst time for purchase.
    What should I look at? How much money should I have in reserve to be prepared hit the road? Which issues does it have? Def? Engine? Which engine is best? All your advices are very appreciated!
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  3. kros

    kros Light Load Member

    Feb 4, 2023
    Can't give any advice but wish you the best of luck!
    Rideandrepair and monicajonas Thank this.
  4. AlexR_uz

    AlexR_uz Bobtail Member

    Sep 10, 2019
    I own 2018 Cascadia with 475K miles on it. I call it ‘Crapscadia’. You fix one thing, next day something else brakes. If you can, buy a new one.
    Only one exception - if you know owner and history of the truck.
    Rideandrepair Thanks this.
  5. runningman0661

    runningman0661 Road Train Member

    Mar 5, 2009
    Clover, South Carolina
    The one box (emissions) will have to be replaced between 700-850K they cost around $8K to replace. If buying used I would have a minimum of $10K in reserves to start, and continually adding to that maintenance account every week.
    Rideandrepair and JoeyJunk Thank this.
  6. DUNE-T

    DUNE-T Road Train Member

    May 10, 2015
    Detroit, MI
    Have you ever been inside a repair shop and took a look how repairs are done? Are words like one box, rear ends, u joints, bearings, injectors, oil pan, filters are familiar to you and do you know where those parts are located?
    Serious question here. Owning an used truck is not the same thing as being a company driver
  7. Freightliner22

    Freightliner22 Bobtail Member

    Apr 22, 2022
    Athens tn
    The way these companies do oil changes at 60k miles and then sell trucks in couple years, I'd be scared to buy any used truck with half a mil on a clock, no matter what anybody says
  8. uncleal13

    uncleal13 Road Train Member

    Apr 9, 2009
    Humboldt, Sk
    I had a 2016 I bought new and ran it to 550,000 miles.
    Fortunately I bought the factory extended warranty.
    Besides the usual little things, they/I fixed/replaced:
    New water pump
    New radiator
    Injector cup seals
    Various oil leaks
    Front heater core
    Sleeper heater core
    New injectors
    New one-box
    DEF fluid injector
    Radiator, yes again.
    Transmission harness
    Transmission computer
    New clutch
    A little over $60,000 worth of stuff.
    The scary thing with that engine design is the oil suction manifold in the oil pan is made of plastic. They are known to either break or lose suction due to bad o-rings, then the crank can get damaged if it’s starved of oil.
    It’s a fleet truck, when they get enough mileage it’s designed to be disposed of.
    Rideandrepair and JoeyJunk Thank this.
  9. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

    Aug 8, 2015
    I don’t think there’s any good answer. Like everyone says. Never know what you might inherit. Being familiar with things help. I would really try to buy newer. Reason being, 4 yr old 500k Trucks were historically about half the price of new. Over 4 years the total cost was and about the same, considering the cost of repairs. The 4 yr old emission Trucks with 500k seem to sell at about 1/3 the price of a comparable new one. All that’s for a reason. The added cost of repairs. New being so expensive, I would try to get as close to new as possible, with the most warranty available. It’s a big risk. I’m sure you already know that. The 2018 and newer are supposedly much better. Last couple years has really been good for fuel economy. The autos especially. 1.5 mpg improvement can save $1000 per mo. running 10k per mo. @ $4.00 per gallon. That $1000 per mo. towards a payment is better than spending it on repairs, considering down time, aggravation, and to degree, residual trade in value. Just some ideas to consider when comparing. Get a warrant work history from the dealer. Provide the vin #, they can print you copy of anything that’s been done. You can also get the manufacture date, original in service date, to help paint a clearer picture. Possibly buy an extended warranty. Something I normally don’t believe in. But considering the magic number seems to be $13,000 for a complete emissions system overhaul. Well worth paying a bit more per mo. to avoid problems as long as possible. Prices are falling, and will continue to. Maybe hit bottom in December, the typical low period. It’s anyone’s guess. Avoid the bargain Truck from an Independent Dealer. Reputable Factory Dealer is best. Especially when you have problems afterwards. Take you’re time. Look around a lot. Don’t get too eager. Get familiarized and focus in on your wants and needs in a Truck. Along with pricing. You’ll find it.
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2023
    AlexR_uz Thanks this.
  10. cuzzin it

    cuzzin it Road Train Member

    Jan 19, 2008
    Berea, KY
    I drive a 2019. About 2 years now. Its doing its 4th shop visit right now since feb. A phantom electrical issue is causing parts failures and 3 dealerships cannot figure it out. Its not my truck so i cannot refuse to take it to a dealership. But at the same time i speak my mind about it. I have worked 3 weeks out of last 8. These trucks are junk
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