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TruckersReport.com Trucking Forum | #1 CDL Truck Driver Message Board
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Manual vs Auto-shift transmissions
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<p>[QUOTE="Bazerk Wizz Bang!, post: 1855247, member: 52755"]Having driven stick in your personal car/pickup almost puts you at a disadvantage to stick in a big rig. I have owned lots of cars and 4X4's all but one were stick. Thought same thing going into trucking. Reality in class was those students who drove mostly auto or never drove a stick did better than the hardliner stick shifters. Driving a manual big rig has little similarities than a manual car. The clutch has two positions on a big rig. First couple inches of pedal after the one inch or so of slack is the clutch. All the way down is the clutch break. You put the clutch to the floor to try to shift after you are rolling the way you do in a car, you loose your synchronization. You have to let all the way off the clutch then just barley push it in when you are at the right RPM for the gear. </p><p><br /></p><p>Advantages of a stick are many. Less mechanical parts, less computerization, less maintenance. You have complete control. Con troll of a big rig is the name of the game, you take away some control for comport in my book its a bad thing. You have a rubber band effect with automatic tyranny, not like stick where you have a direct link from power plant to tires. Manual you can skip gears, start out in third if you want, you can downshift in a bad situation as mentioned in a post above, bad for truck really really good if your llife depends on it, autos take that away. On ice or slick surfaces your foot is basically connected to the wheels in a manual, automatic you got rubber band effect, and if it decides to shift when you dont want it to on slick roads its game over.</p><p><br /></p><p>Not much to shifting despite all the hype, I am bored so I will throw this in for the heck of it. </p><p><br /></p><p>How to shift a manual transmission (Eaton 9 speed):</p><p><br /></p><p>Double clutch:</p><p><b>From a stop</b> simple enough push clutch all way to floor put gentle pressure on stick, let up off clutch just a hair it slide in first with zero grind. Whenever you come to a stop you always push the clutch in all the way hard (clutch break) to stop the gears from spinning, this is the only time you use the clutch break. Other than at a stop you use the clutch normally which is just a few inches from the time you first feel pressure on the clutch. </p><p>Rest of gears: Its rolling, you tap the clutch in (just a couple inches, only slight pressure) pull it out of gear, take your foot completely off the clutch the RPM's hit around 1300 tap the clutch for just a second put slight pressure on the stick just enough to barely feel the teeth hitting each other not a grind and as soon as the gears mesh around 1100 RPM it will just slide in. Keep in mind if you press on the clutch to much putting it back into gear you will never get it into gear till you take your foot off the clutch for a second. Gentle on clutch very gentle on stick. The RPM of the engine and the mesh points will differ, these are just general ranges. </p><p><br /></p><p>Run it up threw 4th gear like a normal manual using double clutch method. Hit fourth gear flip the little flipper button on the side of the sick up and start all over again as if you are in 1st gear for the last four gears. Coming down same thing hit 5th gear, hit flipper down and put your stick in 4th gear position and run it down threw gears.</p><p><br /></p><p>Ice shifting, slick shifting a few names for it (you clutch it out of gear, float it into gear without the clutch):</p><p><br /></p><p>Ice shifting is how I mostly shift, I also do double clutch or float when the circumstance or mood calls for it. But probley 99&#37; its how I shift, its just really convenient for me. Same as above, here is only difference. Running it up threw the gears, pop it out with clutch, i just very gently put the slightest pressure on the stick, and the transmision will basically suck it into gear by itself when it synchronizes, after transmision suckes shifter out of hand i give it a nice nudge/push to make sure its locked, if I feel it is not locked which sometimes it wont just an ultra quick jab on clutch will lock it in. </p><p><br /></p><p>Float shifting. Been told by lots of people not to ever take it out of gear under load at any circumstance because if not done 100% right it can chip teeth on the transmission. I dont do it very often but still do just for the heck of it. All there is two it, is hitting your shift point backing off gass a bit equalizing pressure pulling stick out of gear with no clutch and same thing as ice shifting to put it back in.</p><p><br /></p><p>The only difference between a 9 speed transmission and a 13 speed transmission is a 13 speed allows you to split the top 4 gears, via another flipper switch on the top of the stick. gear 5 gear 5.5 gear 6 gear 6.5 ets. This can be very helpfull for fuel power, not loosing your momentum ets. Its only really drawback that<b> I know of</b> despite many advantages is slightly more difficult for newer drivers to learn on or deal with, I am sure there are more drawbacks to a 13 speed as compared to a 9 speed I just dont know about them. An 18 speed you are able to split the lower and top gears, gear 1, gear 1.5, gear 2, gear 2.5 ets all the way up.. </p><p><br /></p><p>This really has no point being in your thread, just bored as hell so givin you a half aced bonus for no reason. Does give you an idea of what to expect from a manual. Like I said above manual transmissions don't slip like automatics do so no rubber band effect. Manual is metal on metal from engine to tires 100% controll 100% of the time. Autos are compfortable, but your torque converter slipage jackin you when you dont want it to is bad! Computer shifting gears when you dont want to shift with autos, In automatics you have to get the <b>computers permission</b> to shift gears??? Control over comport. Always manual for me, always has been always will be.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Bazerk Wizz Bang!, post: 1855247, member: 52755"]Having driven stick in your personal car/pickup almost puts you at a disadvantage to stick in a big rig. I have owned lots of cars and 4X4's all but one were stick. Thought same thing going into trucking. Reality in class was those students who drove mostly auto or never drove a stick did better than the hardliner stick shifters. Driving a manual big rig has little similarities than a manual car. The clutch has two positions on a big rig. First couple inches of pedal after the one inch or so of slack is the clutch. All the way down is the clutch break. You put the clutch to the floor to try to shift after you are rolling the way you do in a car, you loose your synchronization. You have to let all the way off the clutch then just barley push it in when you are at the right RPM for the gear. Advantages of a stick are many. Less mechanical parts, less computerization, less maintenance. You have complete control. Con troll of a big rig is the name of the game, you take away some control for comport in my book its a bad thing. You have a rubber band effect with automatic tyranny, not like stick where you have a direct link from power plant to tires. Manual you can skip gears, start out in third if you want, you can downshift in a bad situation as mentioned in a post above, bad for truck really really good if your llife depends on it, autos take that away. On ice or slick surfaces your foot is basically connected to the wheels in a manual, automatic you got rubber band effect, and if it decides to shift when you dont want it to on slick roads its game over. Not much to shifting despite all the hype, I am bored so I will throw this in for the heck of it. How to shift a manual transmission (Eaton 9 speed): Double clutch: [B]From a stop[/B] simple enough push clutch all way to floor put gentle pressure on stick, let up off clutch just a hair it slide in first with zero grind. Whenever you come to a stop you always push the clutch in all the way hard (clutch break) to stop the gears from spinning, this is the only time you use the clutch break. Other than at a stop you use the clutch normally which is just a few inches from the time you first feel pressure on the clutch. Rest of gears: Its rolling, you tap the clutch in (just a couple inches, only slight pressure) pull it out of gear, take your foot completely off the clutch the RPM's hit around 1300 tap the clutch for just a second put slight pressure on the stick just enough to barely feel the teeth hitting each other not a grind and as soon as the gears mesh around 1100 RPM it will just slide in. Keep in mind if you press on the clutch to much putting it back into gear you will never get it into gear till you take your foot off the clutch for a second. Gentle on clutch very gentle on stick. The RPM of the engine and the mesh points will differ, these are just general ranges. Run it up threw 4th gear like a normal manual using double clutch method. Hit fourth gear flip the little flipper button on the side of the sick up and start all over again as if you are in 1st gear for the last four gears. Coming down same thing hit 5th gear, hit flipper down and put your stick in 4th gear position and run it down threw gears. Ice shifting, slick shifting a few names for it (you clutch it out of gear, float it into gear without the clutch): Ice shifting is how I mostly shift, I also do double clutch or float when the circumstance or mood calls for it. But probley 99% its how I shift, its just really convenient for me. Same as above, here is only difference. Running it up threw the gears, pop it out with clutch, i just very gently put the slightest pressure on the stick, and the transmision will basically suck it into gear by itself when it synchronizes, after transmision suckes shifter out of hand i give it a nice nudge/push to make sure its locked, if I feel it is not locked which sometimes it wont just an ultra quick jab on clutch will lock it in. Float shifting. Been told by lots of people not to ever take it out of gear under load at any circumstance because if not done 100% right it can chip teeth on the transmission. I dont do it very often but still do just for the heck of it. All there is two it, is hitting your shift point backing off gass a bit equalizing pressure pulling stick out of gear with no clutch and same thing as ice shifting to put it back in. The only difference between a 9 speed transmission and a 13 speed transmission is a 13 speed allows you to split the top 4 gears, via another flipper switch on the top of the stick. gear 5 gear 5.5 gear 6 gear 6.5 ets. This can be very helpfull for fuel power, not loosing your momentum ets. Its only really drawback that[B] I know of[/B] despite many advantages is slightly more difficult for newer drivers to learn on or deal with, I am sure there are more drawbacks to a 13 speed as compared to a 9 speed I just dont know about them. An 18 speed you are able to split the lower and top gears, gear 1, gear 1.5, gear 2, gear 2.5 ets all the way up.. This really has no point being in your thread, just bored as hell so givin you a half aced bonus for no reason. Does give you an idea of what to expect from a manual. Like I said above manual transmissions don't slip like automatics do so no rubber band effect. Manual is metal on metal from engine to tires 100% controll 100% of the time. Autos are compfortable, but your torque converter slipage jackin you when you dont want it to is bad! Computer shifting gears when you dont want to shift with autos, In automatics you have to get the [B]computers permission[/B] to shift gears??? Control over comport. Always manual for me, always has been always will be.[/QUOTE]
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TruckersReport.com Trucking Forum | #1 CDL Truck Driver Message Board
Forums
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Good & Bad Trucking Companies
>
Questions From New Drivers
>
Manual vs Auto-shift transmissions
>
Reply to Thread