I have a Peterbilt 362 down at the end of my driveway, and I would like it to be up in the garage. It does not run currently, and I believe it would take significant effort to get it to a condition where I could drive it up. The rearmost drive axle brakes are seized and the inner-dual rims won't come off the drum. The other axles roll. To get it off of the lowboy, the driver chained it to his tractor and drug it off into the grass for me.
I tried dragging it with my compact tractor (35hp New Holland) which has moved some pretty heavy stuff, but I think that the rear axle being seized up is causing some consternation there. Also, I wouldn't be able to push it into the shop without rigging something up (height mis-match).
Would a skid steer be strong enough to pick up the rear end and walk this thing up a slight incline and up a little more of an incline into the shop? Maybe 800 feet altogether.
I've also thought about calling a wrecker with a wheel lift to hook to the rear axle and back up while I steer the cabover, but I'm not sure if the stinger can pick up a rear axle (I've only ever seen them pick up the front).
Any thoughts or opinions welcome.
Moving a Down Truck
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by SwiftSecret, Nov 12, 2024.
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Rent a telehandler or a bigger skidsteer. It will be way cheaper then a wrecker. As for getting the wheel off cage the brakes and check if it cammed over. If not and its just rusted try heating the brakes and hammering them a bit then giving it a good hard yoink in reverse after using a compressor to shoot some air into the tanks. May break it loose.
If the wheel is rust welded on. You may be able to stick a 2x4 between the wheel and a good hard sledge hammering. Or depending a bottlejack between the wheel and frame with a 2x4. Should pop right off.Deezl Smoke and SwiftSecret Thank this. -
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We had a smaller one and we could not move any of the junk we had at the other yard, so we got a 15K rated fork lift.Deezl Smoke, beastr123 and SwiftSecret Thank this. -
Pull an axle in the rear or disconnect the inter-axle drive shaft
Use portable air to raise the frame as high as possible and block it tight.
You can then tow it with your NH tractor.Accidental Trucker, Isafarmboy, OLDSKOOLERnWV and 1 other person Thank this. -
But I'm going along with Artic Fox and Ridgeline. Rent, trade a friend or borrow a large shoot'n boom (telehandler). Preferably one that hasn't had the safety switches bypassed.
Chain the 362's ### to the center of the carriage and get things done.
Please be safe about this. Not trying to assume too much, but the description has all the ear marks of youtube "when things went wrong" videos. -
My boom truck picks a little over 10,000. The winch will pick 7,000 before needing to double block the winch cable. The winch will pick the rear of the 2004 green Peterbilt in the foreground no issue.
My advice is a SkyTrak with about 8,000 lbs of lift capabilities.
Or…. Jack the rear axle up and chain it to the frame, then put a spacer between the the bottom of the frame and top of the axle housing on the front drive axle. Basically carry the rear drive axle….
Oxbow and SwiftSecret Thank this. -
I'm going to get a larger bottle jack and see about getting the rear axle up in the air more. If I can get those rear axle inner-duals off it should roll just fine. May just let the air out of them and let them lightly drag on the ground as I pull it. The airbags look shot, but I might cap the air lines to the rearmost bags and put some air in there and see what happens. Who knows, just because it's ugly doesn't mean it is completely shot out.
I can pull it front-wise up the driveway, but the last 30 feet into the garage is on an incline, so I'll have to figure that out. I can't tow it in because it's a one-in-one-out garage, and I don't want that tractor stuck there in front of the truck for who knows how long. I have this hay spear attachment for the three-point on the tractor, maybe if I take the spears off it will sit out far enough I can use it with an old tire to push the truck up into the garage with the rearmost crossmember at the back of the frame.
The telehandler is a good option, but it's going to be somewhere around $1000 for a large enough one for a one-day rental (plus delivery). The place close to me doesn't stock them, and the one about 50 miles away would need to deliver it and such. Almost wonder if I can save a little by just having the driver hang out with me for like 20 minutes while I do this, and then taking the lift directly back. I'm assuming if I attach the TH to the back of the thing I would be able to steer it from the TH, so I wouldn't necessarily need someone in the drivers seat.
I just called a towing company with a rotator, he indicated he could probably do it for $400 so I'm going to have him come by and take a look tomorrow. Not sure if he would pick it up with the boom, or with the stinger, but I'll report back tomorrow with what happens!Deezl Smoke and OLDSKOOLERnWV Thank this. -
What’s seized? Is it just spring brakes applied on rear axle? Cage the cans. Hammer on drums to break the shoes free if necessary. If the gear set is seized. Jack up the rear. Chain it up or use good 2” ratchet straps to keep it up as close to the frame as possible. Take the wheels and tires off of that axle. Your tractor will move it just fine. No money spent. I use an old worn out Ford 1700 to move trucks around our yard all the time.
Oxbow Thanks this. -
Picked this Pete up the other night with my 5th wheel wrecker, front drive axle brakes on the left side were froze to the drum (broke down last Thanksgiving ) I was able to hit the brake shoes directly on the side and they broke loose, just a little info you might try as well….
Oxbow, Deezl Smoke and SwiftSecret Thank this.
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