Old vs older for owner operator

Heading up to northern Canada in the oil patch id rather run an old R model mack with 44k camelback with a 300 maxidyne and 12 speed over schlumberger pete 365 with the isx12s that's for sure.

@Ridgeline my dad runs the old stuff because he can't fix the newer epa carp. For the price of a 1 box the old dog could have a full inframe and 8 new drives. Paid 22.5 for the 93 ch and 26 for a 99 ch with a million miles. Some would call that stupid but not the smart do it your selfer old hand. Money well spend

In 82 my dad started out on a shoestring with a beat 71 F model cabover with over a million miles and made lemonade out of lemons. Growing up on a small dairy with converted horse drawn equipment helped with the mechanics aspect. In the 1970 they were still bringing pales of milk to the creamery and hand milking.

 

You realize the difference in a R model Mack and a W900A though right?

 

Haha yes

 

Yup. The R model Mack will take you to Hell and back, while the W900A is skeerd to leave the highway.

 

I figured the w9 would be gone in no time at that price. We'll probably see it reappear soon. I can see the add now with features like, pre elog and only 86k original miles ready to work. Only $79,900

 

Here's the one I'm thinking about buying. An old 2002 flat top classic. Inframed ISX 565 still with a year left on the warranty. Haven't been able to go check it out yet, so not sure what else needs fixing or replacing. Has a 4.10 rear end, and I'd rather have 3.70 or 3.73. But at $22k asking, I could easily get them re-geared and have basically rebuilt diffs and still keep it cheap. yeah I called around about anodizing and found a local place that will be happy to do the wing I would get if I bought the truck. I would do the grille and air cleaners etc too. Yeah crappy photos. But it sure wouldn't be one of these infernal new white areo dustbuster trucks infesting the highways now.

 

I like the look, but it looks like they used a spay can on it.

 

Well, even if it is, it's easy to fix and cover that up with a wrap. I did that once before. Truck was black from the factory, and the idiot before me used a rattle can of black paint all over it. Bought it cheap. Why he did that is beyond me. He thought it was fine and some friend did it for him. Anyways, instead or repainting it for $15k, and worse, most of the paint shops said they couldn't do it because of the crap paint on it. I decided to take it into the decal shop Big Rig in Abbotsford BC used to have. Worse, was the moron had applied metalic company decals on the doors and hood, but when they were still wet with that #### paint. Basically they became embedded in the paint,.Taking them off made an unholy mess and I ended up sanding everything off. So, long story short, for $2500 I got the hood, doors, fenders and lower sleepers done. Even got half off after that because they couldn't guarantee the wrap would stay on because of the lousy surface with that paint. I had that truck for 4 years, from -45 to 125 degrees, and any sort of weather at all. Wrap stayed on. So, like I said, maybe they did spray bomb it. I'd wrap again, easier this time because that looks likie matt paint, the stuff I had to deal with was high gloss. And as previously stated, I'd anodize the shiny parts remaining. Gangster mafia all the way. Probably get evil looks at the chicken coops lol

 

That might work. Like I said I really like the look. I have started to do mine this way. I powder coated the grill so far. Getting ready to try my luck on doing a wheel shortly.
The only reason I say spray paint is the passenger side drive tires either have armor all on them or they painted tires with the rims. And drivers side steps looks like the paint has worked off from getting in and out. I don't think anidizing wears off like that. Tanks look graet though.