Pinion seal frustration

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by cabwrecker, Oct 20, 2017.

  1. cabwrecker

    cabwrecker The clutch wrecker

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    Hey guys,


    Well it's been the typical three-month mark, and i've been due for amother gigantic pain in the ### with this truck for a while.

    Volvo 630, 563,000 miles. Started kicking oil out of the pinion seal a rear differential last Friday.
    Immediately put it into a shop to get it fixed, ended up taking till Tuesday afternoon to get done, they did not have the seal in stock (even though they lied, and told me that they definitely definitely did which is why I brought it to the shop, which is not my favorite at all in my hometown area.)

    This morning, after having driven on it for roughly 600 miles at most, I get up and start checking the truck down before I roll-lo and behold oil everywhere over the rears, the pinion seal has reopened.

    After I got the pinion seal replaced, I drove about 60 miles then had an alignment and rotation done on all my drives in an X pattern. The alignment came back OK, it wasn't terrible but it definitely needed done. I don't know if it did or didn't add to the issues with the pinion seal, it's a possibility but I don't believe a large one.

    I don't know if these guys just used the wrong pinion seal, or if they're just totally incompetent. Which I guess one would lead to the other.

    Does anyone have any thoughts about a pinion seal failing twice in the same week? It's pretty clear to me something else might be wrong.
    And yes the ventilators are clear, the only other thing I could think is that the differential oil is above the fill line. Maybe an overfill? The overfill, I believe that came from a TA premium p.m. lube job.
     
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  3. DougA

    DougA Road Train Member

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    Did they check the nose cone bearing?That's usually why that seal fails.Grab the driveshaft,at the nose and see if you can work it up and down.In neutral,with your wheels chocked.Also,worn splines and yoke,can cause it.A new locking nut should have been installed,too.If the nut comes loose it will cause these problems.Hard to believe a shop wouldn't check that,but from the crap I read nowadays,anythings possible.And yes,they could have frigged the seal up putting it in,spring popped out,etc.
     
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2017
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  4. Vio

    Vio Light Load Member

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    I just replaced the seal, and yes the box it was overfilled.
     
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  5. Happily Retired

    Happily Retired Road Train Member

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    Improper seal installation. Even if it was contaminated oil, it wouldn't go out that fast, and that much to soak the drives. Happy O/O!!
     
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  6. cabwrecker

    cabwrecker The clutch wrecker

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    When I asked about some of these you've mentioned I got blank stares.

    I mean as in sitting here prepping to go into another shop I'm getting progressively more and more angry. This #### is ridiculous.

    One thing I forgot to mention was that the locking nut had 1/4in tack weld on it and the yoke for some reason, they couldn't figure out why it would've been there, this is starting to make some sense in the bet placing arena. Just went back under and checked for loose nuts and pins- nada. Though they did reinstall all old parts aside from the seal.

    I am making the shop that ####ed this up pay for it to be repaired again.

    Hopefully not worn splines, that's not what I need this week.
     
  7. DougA

    DougA Road Train Member

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    Not rocket science replacing this seal correctly,if everything else checks ok.I always pack the back of any seal with grease to keep the spring from popping out during installation.Make sure there is no groove worn in the yoke,where the seal rides.If your splines are worn,it would be in the yoke,not usually the shaft.The yoke is usually cast,will wear quicker than the steel splines of the input shaft.
    You said the nut was tack welded,that would throw up a HUGE red flag,that there's been problems there before,definitly not correct,should be a self locking nut.Time to get this repaired correctly before problems on the road.Good luck.
     
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  8. special-k

    special-k Road Train Member

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    I had one fail shortly after installation. The yoke was worn where the seal rides. The tack weld could be from reusing a used nut. Too cheap? Oddball nut no one had in stock? Had too heat the crap out of the original so they tacked it to be sure it stayed put? Who knows?
     
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  9. SAR

    SAR Road Train Member

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    I think they need to install a speedi sleeve kit. You probably got a worn pinion shaft or they installed the seal wrong.
     
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  10. AModelCat

    AModelCat Road Train Member

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    Pretty hard to #### those seals up. I've put them in with only a 4 lb hammer before with no issues.

    One thing I would check is the slip yoke. Had one seal blow on the rear axle input and the inter-axle slip yoke was seized solid. Not sure if it was related or just a coincidence but it was something I did come across before.
     
  11. cabwrecker

    cabwrecker The clutch wrecker

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    When it comes to the tac welded nut I agree with the red flags, but that said nothing visible to concern anyone outright.

    Speedi sleeve? Haha that's awesome, I'll have to bring that up with the service guy when he comes back. Still waiting but running down the checklist of culprits...

    Got a funky ### nut tac weld, but someone mentioned above could just be lack of a part and wanting assurance it's gonna stay on or heated off etc.

    Maybe just a bad seal? Let's face it though, simplest seal set up in the world, installation takes less time than removing the old one.

    Worn shaft- that's where my money's sitting. Or just plain wrong seal, we had a lot of problems with ID'ing the seal. Luckily I'm back up in Chicagoland so even if this dealer doesn't have the parts, take your pick. #### I could go get them today myself.
     
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