Pinion seal frustration

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by cabwrecker, Oct 20, 2017.

  1. AModelCat

    AModelCat Road Train Member

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    I've re-used pinion nuts before. Clean all oil/grease from the threads and a decent amount of red loctite. I'd prefer that to a tack weld anyways.
     
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  3. Happily Retired

    Happily Retired Road Train Member

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    Yeah, welded nut isn't good. Maybe out of threads on the shaft, and they couldn't keep it tight. Speedi Sleeves saved the day for me, but I think there's more wrong. Rockwells? Dime a dozen, just get another carrier, not the end of the world.
     
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  4. cabwrecker

    cabwrecker The clutch wrecker

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    They pulled the old nut off, looked at the old tac weld, checked they had another, cut it in half and holy #### this thing was heated off to say the least.

    You win the prize. Also the first shop damaged the new seal on installation.

    Moral of the story; don't trust Cleveland Mack and volvo sales off Johnston parkway. Or do, but be prepared to redo their work in another shop because atleast they're living up to their warranty.
     
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  5. Happily Retired

    Happily Retired Road Train Member

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    IDK, I think ALL shops are suffering from poor help. Not just the place you mentioned. I've heard horror stories from all over. Terrible, you have to pay for someone to screw it up.
     
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  6. Ristow

    Ristow Road Train Member

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    put a stemco repair seal in it. like a wheel seal,the lip does not ride on the pinion. i just did all three pinions on my truck today. 2 were leaking. the ones that were leaking had reapir sleeves that had worn thru to the pinion again.
     
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  7. cabwrecker

    cabwrecker The clutch wrecker

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    Bit
    Bit late for that man, speedie sleeve is on now and the driveline is reassembled. Bout ready to push off. I'll keep that in mind should this one fail a bit early down the road.

    Definitely going to be demanding one or the other on the future seal jobs.
     
  8. Jazz1

    Jazz1 Road Train Member

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    You can do this work yourself with minimal tools and save yourself big bucks as well as avoiding aggravation. Just pay attention to details. Its a simple procedure but requires critical attention paid to detail...torque etc.
    good luck!
     
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  9. cabwrecker

    cabwrecker The clutch wrecker

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    Yeah I agree, most stuff that isn't safety critical in more than willing to take a crack at. Thing with this, truck was under a load when this became an issue, ergo pushing it through asap became top priority. Not a great time to break new ground in the mechanic department.

    Here this early spring/late winter when I'm more caught up on bills, all new hub seals on drives, new adjusters, shocks, air bags, pads, drums and putting on crossfires too. Will probably go ahead and do the input and output deals on the forward diff now that they're all likely coming due.
     
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  10. Ristow

    Ristow Road Train Member

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    Unitized seals is what they are called,for future reference. the installer tool is cheap,like 20 bucks.
     
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  11. cabwrecker

    cabwrecker The clutch wrecker

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    This in regards to the stemco mentioned above? I did ask the service guy on my way out why a sleeve was used instead and he came back saying they had none in stock, couldn't get one till the next day, and a sleeve on a pinion shaft will last just as long as a new shaft vs a hub sleeve on the basis that it doesn't take as much lateral abuse- which made sense in all accounts.

    All the same when I run new ones I'll just run these unitized you're talking about and make sure to use the seal installer. Thanks.
     
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