Prostar work around

Yes, I have done this. You have to remove the lower kick panels to gain access to the clutch switch. The clutch switch will be located up towards the top of the pedal. Prostars don't use the old fashion spring loaded trip rod style of switch. They use a magnetic style the just sits next to the pedal but doesn't make any contact. It will be black and mostly square in shape. I think it is mounted to a bracket next to the clutch pedal. Anyway, there are actually two switches inside this box. One allows you to crank the engine, the other is a signal to the body controller that you are depressing the clutch, (this would cancel the cruise and or engine brakes). There will be 4 wires going into this switch. There is a connector that you can unplug to get better access to the wires. The wires you are looking for are the two pink ones. They should be 18 gauge, PINK in colour, and numbered B17A, and B17AA. Simply cut the two wires near the connector body and then butt connect them together to bypass the clutch switch. Make sure you reconnect the connector to the clutch switch or your cruise won't work. Just remember, you will be eliminating a safety design and do so at your own risk.

 

Had this very same issue. Just got a 2014 international pro star and almost seemed impossible to push the clutch down far enough to ever start on the first try. I googled this problem and found this thread and read where you said it's a magnetic switch. So, I placed a small magnet on the arm of the clutch pedal and pushed it up into the dash as far as I could. Actually used an ink pen to push the magnet up as far as I could.

So far it works like a charm! Starts every time now with ease.

The magnet I used is a very small round neodymium, about 1/16" thick and 1/4" wide. Thanks

 

Yes, it does seem you have to push the pedal right through the fire wall to get these things to crank.

 

You ain't kidding. At times I thought I'd pushed the pedal into the oil pan and it still wouldn't crank! Ended up breaking the key off in the ignition trying to twist and push at the same time. I was about to pull the dash off to get at that switch and figured I'd see if a magnet would make any difference. It's like it should be now and it was such an easy fix I just had to share. I hope this helps someone else. -Cheers

 

Im buying an 09 prostar with a cummins and a 10 speed, has that same problem, the clutch pedal has to be push thru the firewall to get it to start. I had them replace the switch by the clutch pedal. still doing the same thing. u mean u placed a magnet on the side of the clutch pedal to pull the switch????? and get it to start easy????

 

HAve your shop disable it. It is a computerized option. I have the same problem on a brand new 2015.

 

The crank inhibit is all switches and relays. There is no computer programming preventing the engine from cranking.

 

Could this cause the truck not to start and say "electrical fault"?? Mine just clicks and when I got a roll (on a hill thank god) it turned right over. I have a brand new starter on the #### thing not even 3 weeks old. Could a switch failure cause this?