While greasing the truck I noticed where fuel seeped out around my ? I’m not sure what it’s called, the regulator I think. The hub in between the fuel tanks. So I cleaned it up some and found the point of leaking. It appears to be a real small, pin like seep out of the brass part of the regulator, the place where I circled. Almost thought about putting some jb weld right there but what I’ll probably do is get the new part.
I never worked on fuel lines and fuel fittings per say. But I imagine if I undo those fittings fuel is going to come spitting out right? It’s looks pretty straightforward, undo the fittings and undo the mounting bolts. But anybody got any tips on doing this fix and or what to look out for?
Thanks in advance
Question on doing a Fuel leak fix
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by HopeOverMope, Nov 17, 2018.
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Do believe that is your return side so you won't loose prime, lines won't be under pressure, just going to leak what is in the lines. Remove, replace done.
But now I'm curious why there is a shut off valve in there and why it's turned off? You have dual tanks?HopeOverMope Thanks this. -
Is that nipple threaded into the block or is it part of the block? If its just NPT thread you'd probably be fine just putting fresh pipe dope on it.
Shock Therapy Thanks this. -
That valve sure is off. Valve to nowhere? For accessory? Future APU ? Never saw that
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Yea, got a shut off valve there. I don’t use the driver side fuel tank.
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Well since the passenger tank is the only one being used, I wonder which one of these lines are under pressure? Sure would hate to spill fuel everywhere. (Especially if I decide to replace the whole thing, if the fitting doesn’t fix it)
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If its a top feed nothing should be under pressure. If its feeding from the bottom and thats the supply line you're sol and will have to drain the tank.Redo it and put the valve at the tank so its useful in case that line gets a hole or torn off. Degrease it with brake clean and have fun.
AModelCat and HopeOverMope Thank this. -
Run a whole new line from the engine to the tank and bypass that mess. Those lines are probably dry rotten and once you move them they will start to leak or suck air and cause a nightmare of problems. Usually those fittings degrade and become seized anyway so you have fight with rounded corners. Also, that valve could be leaking where it bolts together. Just another reason to omit the whole thing and run a new line and be done with it.
AModelCat Thanks this.
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