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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;handlebar, post: 6962943, member: 43746&quot;]If you feel comfortable llooking under the hood on the radio, you can pretty easily diagnoose a bad power/volume switch. First, replace the external fuse with one around 3/4 or 1 amp. Find where the power switch terminals are on the back (or innermost) of the part. There will be just 2 terminals for the power, as opposed to 3 for the volume part. If you have a voltmeter, put the negative lead on a good ciuit ground, like a coil shield. With the power switch off, see which of the 2 power switch terminals has 12-or-so volts on it with the positive lead. The other one should be zero. While holding the meter lead on the terminal that has zero volts on it, turn on the power switch while watching the voltmeter. If it ticks up and stays around 12 volts, you probably have a problem further downstream. If the voltmeter ticks up briefly and drops to something around 5 or 6 volts, or lower, compare that reading with what is then on the incoming voltage side of the power switch. If the unswitched side is still at full voltage, you probably have a bad power switch; they do get dirty from arcing. You can test that theory by jumping the two power switch terminals with a small test lead, a miniature screwdriver, nearly anything conductive. If the radio comes on and stays on, you&#039;ve diagnosed your problem. The small value fuse will keep something else that may be expensive from letting out all the smoke that the factory manufactures into expensive parts from escaping. If the radio seems OK, don&#039;t expect it to transmit with the small value fuse in place.</p><p><br /></p><p>If this radio were on a commercial test bench, niceties like current-limiting power supplies and oscilloscopes would let a tech test more quickly and accurately, but this procedure will let you confirm or possibly rule out a high-rate failure item.</p><p>Hope that helps,</p><p>73[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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