truck won't start volvo 2004 help pablo!

I'm not pablo, but if you are getting a click at the relay that means you are getting the right connection from key switch to relay box. Problem from relay box to starter solenoid is my guess.

 

Our truck recently ran into the problem of not starting. Thought it was the starter cuz the truck had been running all day, shut if off and 15 min later it wouldn't start. Tow truck company came out and pull started the truck. Took it to the TA and it turned out all four batteries were toast

 

One place where most people forget to look is where the ground cable comes off the batteries and connects to the frame. It is usually a 3/8" to 1/2" bolt on the frame rail near the battery box. Sometimes the bolt or nut/cable connection on the frame rail will look clean, so your tendancy is to look elsewhere, because you don't see any evidence of rust or corrosion. More than once I have taken this connection apart as a last longshot resort to find a problem between the steel bolt and the copper cable lug, I would scrape each matching surface clean with my pocket knife and it was like installing a new set of batteries. If I have trouble nowadays, while I am checking battery connections, my next step is to check the bolt on the frame where the ground cable lug connects, what happens any time you connect different materials, ie; copper/steel, aluminum/steel, or stainless steel/steel, there always seems to be a problem with a good joint connection after time has passed by. You might check tis out.

 

Another place that is easy to miss is where the ground cable from the starter is grounded to the frame rail, same story as earlier post.

 

You might also take a good test wire, and hook one end to the hot cable post on the starter, (assuming you have power at that post), and the other end to the solenoid terminal that is powered by the key (in the start position), this should mimick hitting the key, but without using all the wiring the solenoids and wiring that you would normally use by hitting the key. One other thing, I have on many occasions through the years installed starters and solenoids that came straight from the rebuild shops, and have had to return them because of mistakes made by the rebuild shops. If you have 12 volts (assuming the batteries and cables are up to snuff) coming to the solenoid through the cables to the starter solenoid, and if you have a good ground coming to the starter through the cables from the frame rail to the starter ground post, you should be able to hot wire the solenoid as stated above, and the starter should work, (this also assuming that the lugs between the solenoid and the starter are clean and tight as well). Just remember, when you do this, make sure the transmission is in neutral, parking brakes are applied, and key switch is in the on position, so that if it turns over, it will start. Another thing I had not asked about, is there a switch that requires you to depress the clutch before the starter will work? Some companies spec this when ordering trucks, some don't, this switch could have bitten the dust also.

 

Another easy test is to jump start the truck from another car or truck or pickup truck. Hook the jumper cables to the starter directly, the black jumper cable to the ground post on the starter, (out on the end of the starter), and hook the red jumper cable to the hot post on the solenoid, (where the battery cables from the battery's hook to), and then hook the black to the ground post of the car battery, (black) and the red jumper cable to the positive post on the car battery, (Red), this way will completely bypass all the volvo wiring and switches, if you use the test wire method as stated above. If this method fails, I would question the solenoid and starter next. Hang in there.