uneven brake shoe wear

If the cam bushing are worn out the cam will be too. I use bronze bushings as the plastic ones seem to come loose in the spiders and wear the holes oversize. It's not a hard job just dirty . If you what to save a few bucks use c-r ring type seals as opposed to National type's as you can get away with pulling and replacing the hubs without changing the seal half the time. Most garage's won't attempt that because of comebacks but if you're doing the work you can gamble on it and save some $. Good luck BTW always use new hold down kits and BOTH shoes.

 

What about if you pull off the hub and you see that the shoes both top and bottom were worn on the rear side or left side of the shoes but the right side which rest on the s-cam is pretty much untouched . left side 30% remaining rightside bout 80 to 90% on pretty new shoes.

 

I have tri-axle dump trucks with the right side drive axle brakes wearing more than the left side does anyone have a clue

 

s cams and bushings last way longer than 2 sets of shoes as long as you keep them greased they can go a million miles, heak drums last 2 sets of shoes. other than that i agree with everything, always grab the s cam when your doing breaks and check for excessive play.

generally a worn bottom shoe is s cams/bushings unless the large return spring is broken, worn anchor pins generally cause the shoes to try to walk out of the drum or make the shoe not sit flat to the drum (angled one way or the other) if the wheel bearing was loose enough to cause break shoe wear problems you would have a leaking wheel seal as well and strange tire wear.



edit: just now realized i was quoting an 8 year old post but ill leave it up anyway...lol

 

Hey yall it's 2019 and I'm really diggin all this stuff about brakes. I recently replaced my farthest rear drums and shoes. .., used the new springs and roller pins. But now one side is dragging and I have been getting out there with my Lazer thermometer to shoot the temps . One side is averaging 150° while the other side is hitting upwards of 245°!!! I've crawled under there with my trusty 7/16 and been systematically backing that hot side off a few clicks each time. Same problem only now at jolt to one side when braking. So I'm sure glad to have gotten to read this article because I am thinking that I need to go with re-bushes all the way around ,and possibly (hell more than likely) new S-cams/ASA's. Good ol W900 has 1million and change on it now. Legendary Caterpillar C15 BXS still clink/clanking away with no major internal work done whatsoever.(periodic overhead adjustments is all). I do lots of this stuff myself while on the road but I don't know about replacing the wheel bearing and seals just to get the S-cam outta the pocket . Do I really have to go that far?

 

Yiu do not have to remove the hub to replace s cams. You can buy (or make) a tool that allows you to get them out and put new ones in with the hub in place. This saves the money and tinge of new wheel seals. Also, just because you remove the hub does not mean you need to replace bearings. You replace bearings when they are bad. If a shop or mechanic is told you bearings need charged when removing a hub, that's a shop to avoid at all costs. Additionally, if you need to replace a hub or race with a new one you should install new bearings. Never mix old bearings with a new race. They are designed to wear together as a pair.

 

Oh yeah I definitely understand that part. Kinda like when I was doing the drums .... the shoes still had about 30% left ,but because of the condition of those old drums , I was like okay sir I'm gonna be needing 4 drums and 4 sets of shoes. Well I surely appreciate the info on finaggling the S-cams out. I meant to get into fleetpride today to get what I need ,but I laid up in the sack watching Grit TV and reading up on proper procedure for R&R cams and slack adjusters. Thanks again

 

You sure you don't have a bad wheel bearing? Have you crawled under and see if the shoes are tight and dragging? Could be a bad slack adjuster to. A hanging shoe from bad bushings won't cause temps that high. Your problem is something else.

 

Yeah man I'm almost positive it's the cams and bushes cuz the drums were so bad, hell there was a 1/8" lip at the edge of the drums from so much wear. .
and I'm 90% sure that these cams are as old. I haven't got under there with a pry bar yet to see how wiggly the shoes are, but I visually could see that as I backed off the adjustment ,the upper shoe ended up with nearly 1/4" space before the lower one finally lost the contact . Didn't know what that meant at that time but a light bulb is now in my head. Wouldn't you figure.

 

I hope your right, but if you burn up a bearing on a drive housing it will get costly big time. Next time you have to back it off take your wrench and push on the shoes and see if they have the slightest movement. If the do then that's not the problem. If they are tight then it is your problem and easy fix with new shoes springs bushings cams and slacks.