Holy smokes a that a bit flasher than where I'll end up. Would love a space like that so well done. What's the plan for it besides low? Got a color in mind? Any pinstriping?
Upgraded to a K100E
Discussion in 'Australian Truckers Forum' started by jaffles, May 20, 2026.
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That is a friend’s shop because it won’t fit in mine. I had to dump the air to fit through the door, and only cleared by about 3”.
Completely re-did the front suspension, took a partial double frame out of the rear, welded up somewhere over 100 unused holes in the frame rails, shortened it 41” (that made me sad), moved the rear suspension hangers up on the frame, new one piece flush fit rear crossmember, moved air tanks and added a bigger one, completely re-plumbing it, lowering the step boxes 3”, new motor mounts, rebuilt the clutch pivot assembly on the frame, probably some more stuff I’m forgetting at the moment. Yes, the project escalated as it went along.
Only the frame and suspension is getting painted, and it will be the same dark green as it previously was.Here’s what I looked like March 9/2026, the day I backed it in the shop and ripped it apart.
It will be shorter, and lower, when it’s done.1999 C12, Deere hunter, jaffles and 2 others Thank this. -
Sounds like a fair bit of work but all for the better by the looks. What brand/type of paint you putting on the chassis. I have to weld up all the holes where the tipper was mounted, and re-fab the bevel on the rear of the chassis. Might get excited and paint the whole chassis and diffs etc. My double frame is not too bad for 33 years old. Think I will just fiddle with cleaning it out and forcing some sort of rust treatment in there, maybe molasses then chase that with grease. As a teenager my father had this water based rust treatment he brought home from work that worked a gem. Actually killed and coated the rust all in one. Brushed on like a milky water that turned black once dry. Bests stuff I have ever used but that was when I was young and didn't care to take note of much. Now I now I can't find the stuff. I know from my working life killing rust with acid and neutralizing it with water is just dumb, doesn't work, no matter what air tight coating goes over it. What's the deal with long trucks in the US? Is it a ride comfort thing? I'm going the other way, shorter the better for what I do.
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I plan to use POR 15 as a base coat for mine. It is a water based rust neutralizer/primer, sealer. Sounds very similar to what you are describing your dad used. Then regular paint over that because POR 15 isn’t UV stable.
Length? Some of it is for the cool factor, but it also has some real practical advantages.
Hauling long items/beams/etc. With the wheelbase I had, I could haul 60’ material on a 48’ trailer and not have to permit for length or overhang.Feedman, Speedy356, jaffles and 1 other person Thank this. -
Well I know keeping stuff original is perhaps the best for future value, but I never bought the truck to make money from its future vale. Still I'm also not keen to alter it to much which is BS if I'm putting air on the front. Ahh
Down under the only 100s with rectangle lights are the E model. The rectangle head lights are a bit polarizing on taste with many preferring the twin round lights. Initially I was going to swap them over myself, but have grown to appreciate the rectangle look fits the overall square look of a cab over. And says its an E, no need to ask for what its worth.
A sealed halogen sealed beam cost $20 to replace the originals, bit better then the $870 paccar want for mounded plastic head light in my DAF which is also halogen. But I figured for $300 why not put a LED set up in as I drive dark narrow windy roads with no edge lines. And for 3 months of the year run a 50/50 chance of cleaning up a Kangaroo.
So the plan is to run the white bar as a day light which turns off when the head lights come on. I also have a 12" slim line light bar that will fit nicely under the grill on the bumber. I love the fact the indicators are not enclosed or close to the head lights. Maybe its me but indicators next to a head light is not the brightest way to tell on coming traffic your turning. One this for sure, I like the look of them but if they don't set up so I'm not blinding the on coming traffic they won't last long.
Feedman Thanks this. -
I had similar projector LED headlights in my previous truck and loved them. Incredible light, but a very distinct cutoff line so no blinding the oncoming traffic.
I’ll dig up some pictures.
It was a 2006 Peterbilt 385.
I hit a deer with it, and that was the catalyst for the hood rebuild, and headlight upgrade. -
Before
During
I glassed in Freightliner FLD120 buckets.
Had a local shop lazer me out a grille screen because finding one for a 385 was not going well. -
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Another before picture
The day I got the inspiration to use FLD120 buckets and bezels.Low beams before
High beams before
Low beams after
High beams after
Feedman, Deere hunter and jaffles Thank this. -
You are man of many talents oldman. The illumination and spread of LEDs is hard to beat. Good comparisons there. Sadly the lights don't stop the deer, and if they are like Kangaroos its impossible to know which way they will go. I don't want a bull bar but fear its on the horizon somewhere.
Feedman Thanks this.
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