Used Truck Miles

Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by chas, May 2, 2007.

  1. chas

    chas Bobtail Member

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    May 1, 2007
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    Am doing all the preliminaries to switch from driver to O/O. I see lots of posts saying don't pay more than 10 to 20,000 for first truck. I know remaining miles on a truck are important, but just how important? I've been told not to buy one with more than 400 or 500,000 miles. This doesn't compute with a 20,000 dollar truck. I'm interested right now in a 2001 Mack with 800,000, for about 20,000 dollars. Is that just as good for a starter as a 30,000 dollar truck with 500,000? Any pros and cons on macks would be appreciated. My first choice may have been a 2000 or 2001 Volvo and engine choice would be cummins. But now I've gotten to like the Macks.:biggrin_25511:
     
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  3. Burky

    Burky Road Train Member

    The reason people say what they do is that you can't buy back miles once they are put on the truck. However, I am a firm believer that if you walk into the deal with your eyes open, the miles are not the most important thing to consider. If the overall condition of the truck is okay, then I would not worry greatly about the miles on it, as long as they are reasonable for the age of the truck, somewhere in the ball park of 125-150 miles per year of age, which is the numbers to be expected for a solo driven truck.

    What you need to do is after purchasing a higher mile truck, plan on spending some money and going through it and taking care of a lot of smaller items that my need replacement at that point in the trucks life. I would allot between 15-20% of the purchase price to spend on the truck at this point in upgrades and maintenance. For example, the seat may have 800k on it and it would be a good investment to spend the 5-600 dollars for an upgraded seat, since that is the interface between the truck and your butt. I would replace all of the hoseclamps on the various engine hoses, and probably replace most of the hoses as well, since the failure of one of them leaves you stranded alongside the road. And there are a bunch of little things like that I would replace before taking it out on the road and doing that maintenance gives you a better chance of avoiding small breakdowns that will cost much more to repair than the actual value of the part involved.

    Second issue, is that once you got past about 600,000 miles, start planning for the eventual rebuild of an engine, replacement of a trans, and replacement of the rear end sections. They may all last a million miles without a hickup, but you have to make financial plans that they can fail once the basic warranty period expires. Some people plan to replace those parts as a matter of routine as they can afford it, but you still have to plan for the unplanned breakdown.

    You can do well with an older truck and set yourself up well with a better cash flow because of reduced or no payments. But there is a higher ,maint costs and you have to plan ahead for them and do as much pre emptive maintenance as you can before hitting the road with the truck. The guy who fails is the guy who buys it on Saturday, goes to orientation Monday, and starts running on Wednesday. He will probably be riding the hook by thursday.

    By the way, I drive a Mack, and we have a fleet full of them. I know of several daycabs we have with over 1.5 million miles on the clock and no serious work has ever been done to the engines. Properly cared for, driven correctly, they can last a very long time.,
     
  4. MedicineMan

    MedicineMan Road Train Member

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    Woodville, TX
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    Here is my opinion for what it's worth. AN older truck YOU need to know how to work on yourself. If this isn't you then buy a new one.

    I wouldn't buy a couple year old truck with 400k on it. If you do you will most likely still pay enough that you will have a ayment on it plus you have a truck with higher maintenance costs. I say buy new or buy old enough that you don't have a payment. I'd much rather buy a truck with a million miles and a remaned motor(which you realy don't pay much more for, the previous owner eats most that cost) than a 3 year old truck with 400k on it, unless you have cash for it of course
     
  5. MedicineMan

    MedicineMan Road Train Member

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    Woodville, TX
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    Oh, and not all remans are created equal. Make sure you see paperwork for any motor rebuilds that have ben done so you know what work was done
     
  6. chas

    chas Bobtail Member

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    May 1, 2007
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    Many thanks to Burky and Medicine Man for their replies to my questions. Their input is very valuable to me.
     
  7. Matthews

    Matthews Medium Load Member

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    Akron,OH
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    You've gotten some great advice from 2 great people here.

    Even an older truck 90-2000 can be a GREAT investment!

    Use your brain, look the truck over from bumper to bumper/ top to bottom. and look at the OIL before you start the truck!!!

    All the best in your life,
    Matthew
     
  8. Burky

    Burky Road Train Member

    Just to put the miles in a truck into perspective, my 2006 mack is currently in the shop and as a result I picked up one of our other trucks to use for a day or two. It's a 2000, and it has 882k miles on it. It has been maintained reasonably well, both by our shop and by the various drivers who have driven it in the last 7 years. It has a few minor rattles in it that with a little time and effort could be found and eliminated. It runs okay, with no signs that the engine has ever come apart, and despite the many miles it has accumulated, I would have no real qualms about driving it as far and for as long as needed.

    So, miles don't always indicate the basic condtion of a truck. They each require a close inspection to determine if they are truly a "high mileage" truck, or merely a truck that has accumulated some miles.
     
  9. BOBSF350

    BOBSF350 Bobtail Member

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    Mar 9, 2007
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    i agree with all these guys BUT if you know nothing about buying a used truck TAKJE someone with you that has and knows what to look at and what to look for

    Iam sure a few guys will tell you they got the truck they wanted at the time but when they went to replace hoses and what not found this found that wrong and they should have looked it over a little better and either pasted or tried to get the price further down

    I havent bought a big truck but have a buddy that drivers for landstar and buys used every year and has a system with buying
    Hes been driving O/O for 25 years and never replaced an engine/trans/clutch/rears

    He buys and sells every year it seems to work for him
     
  10. broncrider

    broncrider Road Train Member

    the truck i just bought has well over a millon miles.....1,105,891 to be exaxt
    now dont get me wrong, i got a screamin deal...but after a very detailed DOT inspection, small fualts were found...bushings, hoses, cracked welds and other small miscelanious things...all to the tune of $1,100 at a discounted shop rate
    did i make a mistake buyin this truck? HECK NO
    the previous owner had a good maintence schedule
    all major components have been remaned or replaced
    truck is in great shape
    would i buy newer if i could? no
    simple reason is payment....not only is 2g a month scary but id hafta run alot harder to afford it
    so i guess what im sayin is look the truck over very well or pay a shop to do it..$200 before you buy it is better than $20,000 down the road, either that or know the previous owner well/ have a friend who holds said owner in high regard.
    we'll see how this philoficy works out for me over time...as for you do what you think is right, take every thing as advice and not gospel and be careful out there
     
  11. chas

    chas Bobtail Member

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    May 1, 2007
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    Thanks to all the answers in the above reply. Does anyone know how or where to get a replacement ID decal that DOT requires to be posted? Also is it possible to get a list of the items the truck originally came equipped with? The truck I'm buying does not have any documentation of any kind with it, not even the owner's manual. I have downloaded an owner's manual but when they specify type numbers in the instructions, I can't tell which one actually applies to my truck. By the way, It's a 2001 freightliner, with series 60 detroit and fuller autoshift and 70" midroof sleeper with two bunks.
     
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