What are typical builds for a farming 5th wheel truck?

Gaming is a very poor simulation of the trucking world.

I put up a 3406 computer Cat 350 in a fuller 10 midroof freightliner against a full 80000 pound load of ethan allen furniture on a 21+% grade 3 mile pull. Found myself in low gear barely rotating wheels less than walking speed over a hour. Took between two to three hours for all gauges to return to highway normal. Fuel was also a problem as well. So it was a day to remember. She did it. Good kitty. But that borders on Abusive.

You are on a farm, that assumes you have 40 acres to turn in. So that disposes of the single axles. You are going to be tandem drive with interlock at a minimum, full lockers at best. You want tires that will flotation on the steers. Any old ready mix truck have them for off road purposes. Cross rib drives for off road as well.

You want the heaviest rears you can find. Old Logging tractors are the best as they hang off mountains all day many times a day on small scrapes of nothing over the big sky.

A farm is not that difficult. Should not be. We used a old '55 dodge with a gasoline big block, manual three on the tree and duals for 15000 pound applications of payload on the deck back there for the farm we had in Maryland and it's probably still doing it there to this day. (Hay rolls. We put like oh...10 of them up there on it.) And there is a older 80's mack 500 superliner with 15 speed DEEP reduction so we can stop the planet earth a moment to get out of a hole. Its NOT fast but it's V8 format engine has been a champ. I'll take her to any farm to have a combine throw grain into the back, even though it's not it's intended purpose. (Bed is too small...) etc.

 

@TomCougar is our go to trucking gaming expert and has everything u should need to get u down the right path !

 

OP, you looking for real life situation setups or fairytales......? Just asking .....

 

Most around here in Saskatchewan are heavy spec for super B train. A lot of large farmers have them. Smaller farmers may only pull a tri-axle or even a few tandem trailers.
Heavy spec tractors:
450-600 hp
46,000 lbs rears, 3.73 to 4.56 fully locking rears
18 speed transmission, some 13 or 15 spd.
11R24.5 Tire’s for better ground clearance in the field.

Mine is 2016 Cascadia DD16 600 hp, 18 Speed Ultrashift, 3.91 rears full lockers, 11R24.5 Michelin XDS2 drives, Doepker Super-B open end hopper bottom trailers. Empty weight 19,400 kgs full of fuel, 63,500 kgs max loaded legal weight. Personal heaviest gross was 67,320 kgs (loaeded on uneven ground in the mud, hard to get the weight right). Some of our guys have gone over 70,000 kgs

 

I buy a wrench for a specific bolt / nut. Most folks buy a truck for a specific job too, but at times we get outside the norm for a oddball job.

A 350hp engine bolted to a 8LL, 18 spd, or 15spd transmission, with 4:63 or bigger gears in the differential would do the job you have mentioned. Keep in mind, at times gearing is more important than horsepower......

I use to drive as well as operate this Ingersoll Rand T4 Drill for R&L, as well as other drills. This T4 was big, heavy, and clubby. But it only had a Cummins L10 @ 280 horsepower, with a 8LL transmission. Honestly don’t remember what the cogs were though....

The TH55 ( red drill ) had a Detroit Diesel 6V92ta Silver @ 318 horsepower with a 13 spd transmission and 4:11 cogs in the rear.

The Rig tender ( crane truck ) was a 1997 379 Peterbilt with a 550 Caterpillar, 18 spd transmission with 3:36 cogs in the rear....

For local stop & go use or open road use with steep grades, gearing is important!

Not sure if any of this drivel helps you but.....

 

Could, but I’ve never seen one under 5’s. Doesn’t mean they don’t exist.