Which VIN would be used for registration?

my door jam sticker is faded and half falling off. During vin verification when I registered DMV officer knew exactly where to look. Yet that still isn’t a LEO on the road so it can vary.

If I decide to do it, I need to purchase both trucks. Titles in hand before I do anything. This way I own both vehicles.

I was wondering if it’s even possible. Looks like it Is

 

Look, manufacturers assign 1 number to a chassis when they build it. In some cases it may be delivered as an unfinished chassis. Think school bus. Some body builders are licenced by the D.O.T to assign their own V.I.N and have their own V.I.N serial like any manufacturer, but that either includes or refers to the manufacturers chassis number. The identity of that chassis never changes, no matter what you build on top of it.

 

I would go with the 03 as it is pre DPF. Do not know where to get one of these stickers but I see them on a lot of different trucks.
A 4300 IHC rollback, GMC twin screw with a dump bed and Moffet set up, Kodiac Western Hauler type set up and a 3500 Chevy dump as examples. That is want your title says the serial number is and it was just like this when you bought it. I would stick to it.

 

I get that.

my question is what happens when the part that has the vin is bent, or rusted out and you have to replace it. I guess I should have asked that.

because from what it looks like you can slide in a different year frame rail With older vin and if you have the title to that frame you can essentially register it as an older vehicle.


Just thinking things out.

 

The part with the vin is the frame rail. If that’s bent or rusted out it’s over. So ok, you’re going to “slide in” another frame rail. Besides being a lot more nuttin’ and boltin’ than you think it is, you still have to come up with a frame rail with all the holes in the right place. That means finding a fleet spec twin to the truck you’re trying to re-rail, or give it up. Bare minimum you need a rail from a truck with the exact same wheelbase, steer axle, engine, transmission, rear ends and rear suspension. Even then you may end up with holes you have no use for, or some you need to drill.

 

I would imagine the vin could be stamped onto a new frame rail.

 

I’m not sure about a replacement rail from a manufacturer. It may have the original VIN on it as it would be ordered by the VIN, either that or a new number and paperwork that references the old one. An aftermarket rail I don’t know. They may come with their own number with a bunch of paperwork that refers to the original. All the taxes paid on that truck are specific to the VIN so everything has to reference the original somehow, or when it comes to IRP you could end up paying taxes you already paid. The last one I built out of two wrecks and one case of spontaneous financial combustion I intentionally built on a chassis that was already tax-paid in all the jurisdictions I intended to licence it for.

 

That makes sense. I’ve seen the numbers on mine. Only one side right? Do new rails from Dealer come pre drilled, per vin #? Just curious. A stock rail, w/o #s on the other side? Or both rails have vin #s ?

 

Normal cops may not know, but a commercial enforcement guy would straighten that out in a second. I did get into a situation with some MP’s at a base once. They must have just gone on a stolen vehicle identification course or some #### because they were looking all the places you would find a VIN on a passenger vehicle. You’re not going to find a number on the non-existent rad frame in a truck no matter how hard you look. Was 3 hours and a call to DOT to sort that one out.

 

VIN on the right. You order a new rail off the VIN so it would come with the same drillings as the original.