4MG Rebuild

Sounds like the old engine was running good besides the crack so to me Now would be a good time to completely tear down and fix the cracked bare block. Rinse it out real good so you know the shavings are out. Leisurely put it back together it and put it in a truck that doesn’t have to work hard anymore. Just like @woreout said. I don’t like to see good things go to waste and I don’t like to see things scrapped that can be reasonably fixed and repurposed in other ways.

 

If Pete was to make a coe for American market today. I think you nailed it. This is what they should do. Follow the retro trend and bring back the old “bubble nose”.

 

Some of the old timers I was raised around would do something like that to keep the stat open just a little bit permanently. I know drilling a hole in one is an old trick to allow some water to bypass. Was supposed to help engine run cooler. Guys that ran from here up into the rockies would do this. This was back in the days when folks were known to remove a stat in the summer months down here in the 100 degree south. These tricks were just enough that it kept them from having to do that and they could just leave it in so it still allowed heat to build in winter.

 

I couldn’t pass up the photo op when I took the cab off lol

 

I was gonna say, I never figured you as a set-back-axle kinda guy!

 

My ole g30 1 ton service boxtruck has a a piece of cardboard for a wintertime thermostat .

 

Well, all except for the liners the block is stripped.

The crank looks to be in decent shape, a couple of the journals have a light scratch that you can just feel with a fingernail.

Five out of six rod cap bearings had a similar bad spot. I'm curious as to what caused this.

The thrust washers look good to my untrained eye.


I need to look at the cam closer, but nothing looked bad to me. The cam bearings in the block had some uneven wear in a couple of them. I'll dig into that later.

We developed a fairly safe system for flipping the block over - at least no one lost any fingers!

 

You know me well lol

 

I sure miss that color of YELLOW……….

 

I sure appreciate it Russ. It is tempting to go with the 160-1131 pistons. I looked them up and they are $300 a piece for "Body Assembly - Piston". I assume that includes the wrist pin/rod. Then there is around $100 for rings for each hole. If I did that and reused the liners that cam out of this engine the parts would about pay for the extra labor to pull the cylinder packs out of the other one. I would have to buy nozzles to match too though.

This engine really doesn't look like they had a ton of miles on it since rebuild. We are planning to put the new head from the other one on this one. I need to inspect the cam yet, and the cam bearings. I'll get some better photos and get everyone's opinion.

More to come!

Thanks