DETROIT INFRAME COST??

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by areelius, Feb 12, 2016.

  1. spyder7723

    spyder7723 Road Train Member

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    Well ya, if someone doesn't press the liners all the way in it is going to create problems.
     
  2. jamespmack

    jamespmack Road Train Member

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    Angle on number 2 ring. And cross hatch matching problems in liners. And yes harness was changed and more parts that was a short list. But it was down and my plans were to spend what I needed to make it a million mile engine again. And do not want anything newer. Plus everything else besides engine on this truck i ve done myself. Ie trans clutch and rears.
     
  3. jamespmack

    jamespmack Road Train Member

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    I'm telling you liners drop. Because the block wears out. The machined surface in the block i.e. counter bores. It becomes deeper and out of round, pitted. You cut it out bigger to true it up. Then install replacement insert. Then press new liner in.
     
  4. tallmon

    tallmon Medium Load Member

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    How much for a complete reman engine from Detroit?
     
  5. jamespmack

    jamespmack Road Train Member

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    I can't confirm the price. Detroit Diesel paid for mine. But i will advise that it is worth the money and or time to run it to about 60k and do the valve adjustment. And go a little further pull rockers and retorque head bolts at this time.
     
    tommymonza Thanks this.
  6. 543876

    543876 Bobtail Member

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    What about cavitation on the block, can you do anything to deal with that problem?
     
  7. spyder7723

    spyder7723 Road Train Member

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    If it's at the counter bore, and not too bad, you can cut them. If it's at where the liner seals in the wet area...your pretty much screwed, unless someone makes over sized liners and piston kits for your particular engine.

    This is the number one reason for keeping up on your coolant additives. Keep the ph balance right and you wont get cavitation in the block.
     
  8. spyder7723

    spyder7723 Road Train Member

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    You have to pull the cam to access all the head bolts. If they are torqued right to begin with, you don't have to touch them again. I'd be more worried about the main bearings than the head. That crank has a lot more stress on it than the head. And only 2 bolts per cap vs 38 on the head. Or is it 36? Can't remember of the top of my head. At any rate, do the job right the first time and torque everything down in the proper sequence, and they are not coming loose.
     
  9. DXB Transport

    DXB Transport Bobtail Member

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    Hey Guys,

    I'm new to the site and in need of guidance. I'm currently in the process of overhauling my Detroit Series 60 Engine 14Ltr. I'm confused to install Original Detroit overhauling kit OR aftermarket kit. The price obviously is high on the original Detroit. Which one should I go for? My truck has already clocked around 1 Million miles. and needs overhauling.
    Would be glad to hear from you guys.

    Thanks!
    DXB Transport
     
  10. Hulld

    Hulld Road Train Member

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    I recommend the oem parts if you can swing it.
    Do not buy the oem parts thru Detroit though.
    Buy them thru a freightliner dealer.
    The oem Detroit parts are cheaper at a freightliner dealer than they are at a Detroit dealer go figure.