Paying cash for an older semi tractor vs. financing a new one

I've been researching and comparing truck prices, ages and models. I've also got my insurance rate quote today from Progressive. So, here's what my plan is, or the part of it that matters for my question.

I'm going to pay cash for a truck. I'm either going to go with a $12000 truck and know that I may put another 12k in it, but only if it is still a running clean truck. Say an old N14 Freightliner, a Volvo with a DD15 or maybe an International 9400 with a Cummins big cam. On the other hand, I could spend say 32k and get a much later (2012-2014) model which will have more emission crap, but will be "newer". I don't care much about beauty as that can be improved with paint and body repair cheaply because of who I know. Bear in mind, since I will haul a 48' flatbed, not a dry van or reefer. I definitely want a manual, preferably a 13 speed. I'm not planning on a lot of dirt mountain driving, as that scares the #### out of me. However, I want to have a truck / trailer combination that can easily get in and out of warehouses and tight spots.

I'm no mechanic myself, but feel comfortable with some of the mechanics I know to do work locally, for what its worth. Do any of you guys or gals have any thoughts on rear end ratio / transmission / power plant combos that would work that maybe were popular on gliders that can now be bought reasonably used, or perhaps out of favor, under valued trucks that you feel deserve a hard look. I don't see shelling out 60k on an old w900 or 389. I have no brand concern, at all. I just want to get pointed in some narrowed down direction for hauling a flatbed otr. Fuel mileage is no joke either, but I need enough power to get the job done.

Thanks for your advice and opinions on an affordable truck.

 

A 12k dollar truck could easily eat 24k dollars the first year you own it, of course the same can be said for a 30k dollar truck. It's all gambling at this point, records of work done doesn't mean the person they had do it knew what they were doing. I personally wouldn't look at anything below high 20s, simply because anything below that is usually a ragged out pile that will eat money.

 

You can get a brand new truck for much less then $32G down. And have warranty.

Old trucks can cost more in repairs then new truck payment.

It's a gamble either way.

I've been in a 07 w900 for 3 years now. It's eaten more in repairs then a brand new truck would cost. It's working on it's second truck note now.

 

Well it depends how you look at it because even if you buy something absolutely brand-new that still can be a Gamble.

It also depends on whether you can work on your own truck or not. You're at a big disadvantage if you can't do your own repairs and you have an older truck. With that being said you mentioned the Cummins big cam. I can only tell you that the injectors cost about 60 or $65 a piece versus somewhere around $400 a piece for the electronic engines. Not to mention what it cost to replace wiring harnesses track down electrical problems replacing computers sensors, variable geometric Turbos... Just that junk can you run you 10 grand or better especially if you have to go to the dealer and other shops to have them figure out what's happening.

There's a place you can buy a whole brand new big cam engine for $11,000, I think in North Carolina. There are newer engines that I have read that just to get them rebuilt, not to buy a new one, to have them rebuilt can be 30 or $40,000.

So I think you have four choices.

1) You buy something brand new and keep your fingers crossed.
2) you buy something less new and keep your fingers crossed.
3) you buy a $10,000 truck and hope you make money before you go broke
4) provided you have enough money buy an older truck that you like and either fix everything before you start or be determined that whatever happens you're keeping that truck and you're going to fix it. Eventually that truck will be like new if you have the time and money and grit to do that.

 

Ask them what truck to buy. They see all the problems. They will be familiar with a certain engine and know all the trouble spots on a given model of truck, and since they will be doing the work, buy the truck they want to work on. This WILL save you tens of thousands on repairs. Probably recommend a BC Cummins or a pre 2003 12.7 DD60.

Other than that....1999 gets you away from Elogs. 1997 gets you away from ABS. Mid to late 80’s gets you away from ECM’s. You said you wanted a truck easy to manouver.....a 1997 T800 with a 12.7 DD60 and a 13 speed and a AG100 rear suspension and a 3.70 or 3.90 rear is a solid beginning.

 

A large fleet owner once told me, "YOU CAN MAKE TRUCK PAYMENTS,OR YOU CAN MAKE REPAIR BILLS. IF YOU HAVE BOTH, YOU WILL GO BROKE ".
I bought 1 new truck in my life, never again will I do so. I look and look and look some more, until I find an older truck I feel good about. Currently have a 2001 F/Liner, bought 11 years ago.Makes me a good living.
Your needs might be for a newer model, but you simply have to due your homework, ask questions, and check everything before buying your truck.
I am 66 years old, and hope I can complete my trucking career with-out ever buying any DEF fluid, these newer emission vehicles simply seem to stay in the shop more than on the road.

 

They may also know of a customer it has an older truck that they maintained that they want to upgrade, or they may know a customer that just wants to get out from under a truck they have.

You'd be surprised how many guys take their truck to a garage and tell the shop I had enough I want to get rid of it etcetera etcetera.

 

I bought my 2000 Freightliner FLD for $7,500 on ebay in 2014. This is now a good strong faithful truck. A lot of things break on it, like air bags leaking needing to be replaced, some dash parts, but nothing expensive or really major happened as of yet. Once the transmission almost fell off due to someone doing a bad clutch job two years ago, but it is not the truck's fault. It has a Cat C12 engine.

I am in love with it and drive it every other day.

I want to find another truck like this for my new driver.

 

My personal favorite reason to get rid of a truck......”It’s paid for”

 

A lot of variables. How hard do you want to work. Once you sign up for 1700 to 2100 a month payments, you have to go. I also purchased 1 new trk in my life so far. A co 9670 in 1982. Payments were 1365 a month. Was a long 48 months. I drove it 17 years. Anyway i buy used. Purchased a 01 379 almost 7 years ago. One year in had to get the engine rebuilt. There is NO WAY this trk has cost me 1700 to 2100 in repairs every month. Couple more things, a owner can take some time off when the debt is not hanging over your head. When you get a new one it is nice. But the new wears off and tires wear out, and you still may be making payments. Jmo.