When you do your tug test, and that trailer moves with the truck instead of staying still -- how much do you need to keep playing with the trailer hand valve? Like you press it down to make the trailer stay in position, so you know it's connected. I realize that, but I've also had a couple of times when the tug test didn't work.. but I knew my fifth wheel was locked in to position so the trailer would definitely stay connected to my tractor. I have heard though that if the tug test doesn't work, it's still dangerous to drive it like that -- if you ever had to come to an emergency hard stop. What do I need to do, to fix such a situation -- to what extent do you keep playing with the hand valve/brake?
i think what your asking is why wouldnt the tug test work if you are hooked up correctly? if trailer moves when brakes are on means brakes are not adjusted then yes it is dangerous and a DOT violation to drive
Or instead of the hand brake, just keep the red button popped out. it takes less coordination. afterwards when you do your smooth controlled braking is how you get the automatic slack adjusters to alignwith your braking. and the trailers we have, tighten all the way, then turn back 1/4 turn. but yours may be different.
If you are still on your yard, and have a mechanic on duty , note it on your VCR and have the mechanic adjust the brakes and sign-off on the VCR.....if you are at a drop yard with-out a mechanic around adjust them yourself.....run the adjustment nut all the way down , then back 1/4 of a turn most nuts are size 9/16th , Just like another poster said above.
If you have enough power and a light enough trailer, even with the brakes fully set it will drag the trailer. Tug test and a visual inspection.
The tug test covers 2 things if the trl brakes work and if your hooked to the trl...before I ever move I use my flaslight to check and make sure the kingpin is secured...my friend had someone unlock the 5th wheel on him one night to many disgrunted former drivers out there..
If the trailer has automatic brake adjusters, fully press in the floor brake for 1 sec, release for 1 sec, and repeat 5-10 times (you may have to wait half-way through the process to build pressure back up). 9 times out of 10 this will adjust them -- its just that most drivers never apply 90psi+ to the brakes under normal driving.
Not with the gear down and trailer chocked. You'd have to be on the fuel pretty hard to drag the trailer. Even an empty trailer should offer some resistance if the brakes are properly adjusted.