2006 Durastar, no power going uphill, no faster than 55 on Hwy.

Discussion in 'International Forum' started by TorchHypnosis, Dec 21, 2023.

  1. TorchHypnosis

    TorchHypnosis Bobtail Member

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    Aug 15, 2023
    Shelton Washington
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    I have a 2006 4300 series Durastar with a DT466 engine. It has almost 300k on it, but still looks clean and drives great. Well, it used to. A couple days ago it took FOREVER to accelerate, and couldn't get past 55 on the highway. And going up a hill was not really an option. I noticed the check engine light was coming on and off intermittently so there should be some codes for me to retrieve. Unfortunately no one around here (with the exception of professional truck servicing shops) has an HD OBD reader that will pull codes for this truck. I ordered one, it arrives Saturday. I'm going to wait until I pull the codes before I do anything to it, I don't want to keep throwing money at it grasping at straws.

    Anyone experience this before? Will low pressure in the fuel line trigger the CEL to come on and off? Will a clogged fuel filter? Anything inexpensive and easy I can do that may fix the issue before I pull the codes(fuel injector cleaner, etc...)? We use this truck for deliveries a few times a week and I'm hoping it's a repair I can perform myself.

    Thanks for reading!
     
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  3. Saltyoldone

    Saltyoldone Light Load Member

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    Jun 16, 2019
    Boise
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    Fuel filter and/or fuel/water separator would be my bet.
    I have a different engine but had the same symptoms after getting bad fuel.

    Good Luck
     
  4. TorchHypnosis

    TorchHypnosis Bobtail Member

    16
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    Aug 15, 2023
    Shelton Washington
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    Thanks for the quick response! Do you know if that would cause an intermittent CEL?
     
  5. SmallPackage

    SmallPackage Road Train Member

    5,291
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    Dec 20, 2019
    Marion Texas
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    If it has the heui fuel pump it may be that. If something with it is going bad it will cause a derate. Just hope it doesn’t get bad enough to limit the rpms that 45 mph is all you will get. If you have no experience with them or time to research and learn about them it is best to go to a certified shop. They are tedious and finicky to work on.
     
  6. TorchHypnosis

    TorchHypnosis Bobtail Member

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    Aug 15, 2023
    Shelton Washington
    0
    It's been a few years since I worked on a diesel engine. Now I remember doing maintenance on our old Freightliner and replacing the fuel filter and the fuel water separator. I took a five year hiatus, and during that time the acting maintenance manager either did not maintain the truck unless it broke, or he did not keep records. Either way I picked up the separator element and the fuel filter, I will install them tomorrow.

    I'm still going to keep the code reader, better to have one and not need it than need one and not have it. Will post tomorrow. If it doesn't fix the problem I will post the codes. Thanks!
     
  7. Inderjit

    Inderjit Heavy Load Member

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    Sep 17, 2017
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    Can you check the fuel pressure? There is a fuel restrictor/orifice in the bottom of the fuel filter housing. It allows excess fuel to return back to the fuel inlet. The 06 DT466 does not have a return line. Dirt and rust will build up in the bottom of the filter housing and get on the seat of the restrictor causing low fuel pressure. If you clean the restrictor with compressed air or replace it you should get the power back. If there is lots of junk in the bottom of the housing you will need to clean it as it will just build up on the seat again.
     
  8. TorchHypnosis

    TorchHypnosis Bobtail Member

    16
    0
    Aug 15, 2023
    Shelton Washington
    0
    Thanks everyone for your suggestions, I appreciate it! Inderjit, I will see about removing the restrictor and replacing it. Im going to replace the fuel water separator and fuel filter first and see what DTCs populate. The ones that I pulled earlier this week (that have bbeen stored in there for who knows how long) are:

    PID110 FMI14

    Coolant temp special instructions


    PID168 FM14

    Battery potential voltage, voltage lower than normal or shorted


    PID110 FMI0

    Coolant temperature above normal


    SID254 FMI8

    Controller #1 abnormal frequency, pulse width or period


    SID155 FMI7

    System diagnostic code #5, mechanical system not responding properly


    SID27 FMI6

    Variable geometry turbocharger, activator #1 current above normal or grounded circuit


    SID27 FMI5

    Current below normal or open circuit (I’m assuming this also relates to the variable geometry turbocharger activator #1)


    SID1 FMI5

    Injector #1 current below normal or open circuit


    SID2 FMI5

    Injector #2 current below normal or open circuit


    SID3 FMI5

    Injector #3 current below normal or open circuit


    SID4 FMI5

    Injector #4 current below normal or open circuit


    SID5 FMI5

    Injector #5 current below normal or open circuit


    SID6 FMI5

    Injector #6 current below normal or open circuit


    SID146 FMI7

    EGR valve mechanical system not working properly


    So I cleared the codes and once I replace the separator and filter I'm going to take it on a test drive and see what codes re-populate.


    Thanks again!
     
  9. TorchHypnosis

    TorchHypnosis Bobtail Member

    16
    0
    Aug 15, 2023
    Shelton Washington
    0
    UPDATE:

    I Installed the fuel filter/separator (it appears they are the same thing?) and in the process drained the housing that holds the fuel water separator cartridge. When I went to start it the batteries went dead after a few cranks. Charged the batteries to 50 percent and it fired right up...but only ran good for about 30 seconds. Then it sounded strange for about 10 seconds before the engine quit.

    So I pulled the codes:

    SID1,2,3,4,and 6, FMI5, Injector cyl (X) current below normal or open circuit

    SID254 FMI8 Abnormal frequency pulse width or period

    PID168 FMI4 Battery low voltage or short to lower voltage

    I took out the batteries and alternator to have them tested. The batteries failed, but the alternator checked out. I replaced them and when I tried to start the truck it cranked over great but would not start. Sounded like it may have been trying on one cylinder.

    I'm going to google this. These codes were present when the truck fired up for 40 seconds before dying, so I'm wondering if I may just need to prime the fuel system?

    Any advice is most certainly very much appreciated. Thanks for reading.

    -Monte
     
  10. TorchHypnosis

    TorchHypnosis Bobtail Member

    16
    0
    Aug 15, 2023
    Shelton Washington
    0
    Oh, one more thing...the fuel pump doesnt turn off. I tried to pick up a fuel pressure gauge but it didn't have the right fitting so Im going to have to keep looking.
     
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