Newbie to the forum, and I joined after reading some posts from some knowledgeable folks here. I am asking for some advice (yes, everyone wants something) on installing my CB and maximizing performance. I am a firm believer in good engineering and don't like cheap products or solutions that are "good enough". I want to do this right the first time. Radio I have a Uniden PC76XL. It's a good radio and I plan to keep it. Not looking for all the latest and greatest add-ons. All I ask of the radio is to be clean, efficient and legal. Since I am not trying to boom signals to extraterrestrials or stream a signal to SATCOM 5, what can be done, if anything, to enhance performance and stay legal. Clear transmit and receive without stepping on others people's toes is all I require. I read about radios that have this added, that added, have been tricked, picked, clicked and slicked and a myriad of other slang. Probably not for me, thanks. Peaking, tuning and aligning ... snake oil or benefit? A great old guy that owned the bait shop in Marshall, Michigan displayed hundreds of lures on the wall of his store. I asked him if he had any luck with those lures. He responded, "those lures have caught more fishermen than fish". He's gone now but his wisdom lives on. Antenna I have a base coil K40 magnetic mount antenna that I place in the center of the van roof. Seems to work alright, but will I benefit from switching to a full length whip attached to the bumper? Remember, all I want is clean reception and clear transmissions. For the most part the radio will be used for talking on long drives and to the locals when we travel. I do not yet have a good grasp on understanding ground plane, so if someone has the time and doesn't mind explaining it to me I would be grateful. Cable I have designed and installed numerous computer networks. One thing I can share with you is network performance suffers from poor wire management, improper placement and cheap materials. I have to think that this logic apples to a 2 way radio setup as well. Is there a better cable application than what comes from off-the-rack antennas? I'm not one to trip over dollars to save a nickel so if there is a better application I want to use it along with the better coupling and adapters. Are there areas on a vehicle to avoid placing cable? Installation The radio will be placed above the windshield for convenience. From here I ask for your advice on cable placement and antenna installation. I want to do as much of this myself as a hobby and labor of love, but will gladly yield to a qualified individual those things that should be. Thanks in advance for the help. Great site.
Great radio, nice antenna, but one question: what specific kind of vehicle is this going on/in? You mentioned "van", but I don't know if this is a CMV or a Chrysler Town & Country. It will make a difference on antenna placement and cable routing. Also, is it a diesel? Thanks, -- Handlebar --
Sorry for the vehicle omission. I had to do this post 3 times before it went through because of the script blocking plug-in I run on my browser. It's an 02 Chevrolet Express 2500 Conversion Van, 4.3 L V-6. The roof has been insulated with carpet padding and recovered with the original "cardboard" cover, no other electronics except the standard cargo lights. It was my neighbors work truck and I took the time to place plywood, carpet padding and carpet on the floor. 6 trips between Detroit and Denver and she rides like a dream with the Starcraft Leather seats I was able to pick up. (this has jack to do with CB but I am trying to familiarize you with my vehicle) I believe I am at a real vantage point now as I recently replaced the distributor, cap, rotor and wires. Should be very clean as far as interference from the vehicle. I also have a Magellan GPS and a Whistler Radar detector ... any concern here?
The PC 76 is a very good radio. With a peak and tune it is a GREAT talker. And no it's not legal. The Mag mount K-40 should work ok. A 102' whip is better. But on the body. NOT ON THE BUMPER. I would just keep the K-40 before placing a antenna on the bumper. And yes there is better coax. But at a length of 18ft and 27Mhz it really does not matter. Or you can run a ball mount and 102' SS Whip on the left quarter panel with some Mini 8x coax.
"Yes, keep the coax away from the exhaust pipes, driveshaft and other wires if possible." ok, I think I can do that. Ground Plane: I wonder, if I were to mount a saucer under the antenna would this have a positive effect? You mentioned 9 x 9 being an ideal surface for ground plane. Is it possible to logically reproduce 9 x 9 with a dish at the base of the antenna? (modified for wind resistance of course). Computer geek at heart so forgive my eccentric thinking if this is out in left field.
Thank you for the peak and tune info. Won't be doing that. Your endorsement of the radio helps too. It's a $40 investment, ($10 for the antenna) and thought it was a good deal as it has been taken well care of. For sale locally on eBay I was able to try it out before sniping it. Not opposed to the idea of a ball mount and whip. What's the benefit from this application? What I really hope to get is the best reception. If they can't hear me I'll wait til I am closer! Besides, I'm a better listener than talker ... married!
USA-1, I concur with my colleagues' advice in this thread. I just answered a similar question about antenna choice and placement in another thread with a plethora of details. As one of the folks here said, an amplifier only helps transmit. Makes you into an "alligator station" -- all mouth, no ears. (The converse is true when you have a great receive system and only 1 watt out -- a bunny rabbit station.) The only point I disagree a little bit on is the P&T. As long as an FCC GROL (General Radiotelephone Operator License) makes the adjustments, and keeps them within the FCC's published specs, they're legal. A lot of radios come from the factory putting out only 3 watts or so, and 70-80% modulation, sometimes they're off-frequency, and the receivers may not be tuned to maximum sensitivity. A simple alignment to the best *legal* performance that can be had from a radio can be of benefit. But a lot of shops wring every last picowatt they can get out of the transmitter, and ignore the receiver, spread coils so they put out signals out of the band (but wattmenters just read raw power, so it isn't obvious they're *wasted watts"). Lots of folks clip or otherwise disable the modulation limiter circuit, turning the transmitter into a splatter box. Plus, how long would your vehicle last if you drove everywhere with the pedal to the metal? Same thing with radios. I always bench test everything that leaves my shop, either new, used, or repair, to make sure it's performing its legal best. So does Dave at DTB, and lots of others. If you do have occasion to take your radio to a shop, ask to see the service equipment they use. If you don't see an oscilloscope being used, or if they don't even have one, make your exit. If all they use to tune with is the microphone and a wattmeter, be hasty in your exit. But the difference between 4 watts and 6 watts will never be heard on a receiver in real life. Better to let your radio run where it's supposed to; it'll last much longer. -- Handlebar --
A 102 whip will indeed work better than your K40 but for the absolute best results you need to mount the 102 on the roof of the van dead center. A 102 whip is about the best antenna for the money that any CB operator can buy for his mobile rig. These statements are very true. But I WOULD NOT RUN A 102' WHIP ON THE ROOF OF A FULL SIZE VAN. It just make the antenna to tall to be safe. And in some places illegal.
Thanks for that Handlebar ... this is the info I was looking for. I have no idea what shop I would take my radio to. They are so few and far between these days. Sounds to me that you believe in good engineering as well. I understand that your post was not a solicitation, but, if you were to optimize a radio to legal specs what would one expect to pay for this service?
