Installing oil cooling nozzles and torque specs DDEC 4 series 60 Detroit

So here is my story on the piston cooling. Got them installed last week, after putting them in my oil pressure dropped about in half. Running about 25 instead of 40-45 going down the road. Ran 1 day pulled the pan again, reinstalled the plugs.

Finally found out after one of the mechanics at the shop I use talked to another guy he knows who specializes in Detroit. The engine I have has oil going through the connecting rods to cool pistons, so I was trying to do double duty. Thought I did all the research on this, as I talked to several mechanics, the service manager, owner of the shop who has modified a lot of engines, and also Interstate power; nobody knew about this.

Hopefully this will save somebody from the extra work. I guess if I ever overhaul this engine will then be able to update to heavier duty pistons, rods, etc; and then install the piston cooling nozzles as this is what the higher HP engines came with.

 

Thank you. Was thinking about doing the same work and stumbled upon your post

 

You answered my question as to wether both were used. I think the drilled rods are an upgrade from nozzles. I’ve seen the bearings in the kits on line. Top rod bearings have holes that lines up with the drilled rods. I’m not sure, but the bearings may be wider also. There’s one kit with wider bearings anyways, Just my thoughts, The old style bolt in wrist pins pistons are 15:1, without cooling nozzles. They were known for coming apart around 750k, sometimes going through the block. Just happened to a friend of mines 96. I think the PK engine, had 15:1 pistons and cooling nozzles. That’s what my last Truck had. The newer snap ring held wrist pins with cooling nozzles are 16.5:1 pistons. That’s what I’ve got. it’s a BK engine. The other engine with oil cooling nozzles are GK engines. I’ve never heard of a TK engine. They had a later one, around 2002 maybe, that had 17:25 pistons. Not sure about the rods or nozzles on those. Anyways thanks for the info. Update any future info. I’m always curious about 12.7s, and what kits can be used. Don’t take my word, but I think the drilled rods are the better set up. Let Us know.

 

From my little research looks like my MK also has 16.5:1
It's only rated for 470hp from the factory and it has 7045 injectors vs 7650 on BK.
I wonder if there is any other difference between my MK and BK

 

I don’t know, What year is your engine? I thought the mk doesn’t have nozzles. But the block may be drilled, and capped off. I think after may of 98, is the date that all blocks came drilled.

 

What I’m wondering now, is, if a block isn’t drilled, all you have to do is get drilled rods? Or do the drilled rods use a wider bearing, and a new crank would be needed. I’d rather have the drilled rods, I’m think the 14Ls all have them. Better than nozzles.

 

It doesn’t matter, I’ve already done my overhaul. But I’ve often wondered if a 14L crank rods and pistons could be used in a 12.7. Making it a “Stroker” engine. All the torque of a 14L. That would be cool.

 

The build date is Nov 99

 

Same as mine. Except mines a BK. If you don’t have nozzles, already, your blocks drilled and plugged. My rebuild kit came with new nozzles. I found the info on the rods. They use the same crank, and can actually both be used in the same engine, according to the manual. I don’t know why anyone would do it. It doesn’t mention it, but from the OPs post, the nozzles would have to be removed and plugged, to use a drilled rod. The oversized bearings/ undersized crank I was thinking of was an upgrade on Natural Gas engines only. The only other thing that may be different between our engines is the cam. If you need injectors and a cam anyways to make it a 500, along with a ecm settings, might as well get the best combination. Lots of info on here, about that. I’m happy with mine, but apparently there’s better options than my cam and injectors.