N14 Celect tear down.

Ok, took the hood off by myself this morning. Dam that things alot bigger than it looks, once you’re trying to softly put it on a pallet. Removed the crusty arse radiator and charge air cooler. A/C compressor is off, crank damper off. Now accessory pulley. I’ve got a puller I made for the small cam I did, if I can find it. I’m planning on replacing the front main and accessory drive seal, while I’m here. What kind or style of puller do y’all use for the accessory drive pulley?

 

Got the pistons and rods, tore apart and was wondering about the wrist pin bearings. They still feel great on the old wrist pins, with no wear marks, scratches or signs of excessive heat. Kit comes with wrist pins, what can I expect with the new pins and used bearings?

 

hasn't failed yet…been close a few times though occasionally the round key gets worn into the side of the slot and makes it a real pita to get off…seems to be most common on ih truck…no idea why though

 

I have reused plenty of pin bearings on farm tractors and trucks and never had any issues with new pins Or old. I have also reused many piston crowns and just put on new skirts. You had 1 piece pistons if I remember right

 

I’ve found most of the kits are 2 piece, for a N14 Celect or Celect +. Any advantage, one way or the other?

 

Are you keeping your cpl or building something else/better?
You should try to make sure the piston bowl and the injectors match.
Not sure if there’s a 2 piece replacement for your one piece that will and not sure I have any way to verify it anyway. I have done some mixing and matching on a few and never had any problems
One in particular was a little smokey but I really think it had been tuned at some point because it sure ran good.
The 2 part pistons will occasionally break the skirt might crack the crown if you have injection problems
The one piece can melt or seen some break the ring lands out. Idk which is more troublesome but I can tell you that breaking a skirt is likely to destroy the block. I would say the general consensus is the 2 piece ones will take more abuse

 

I’m gonna build it back to the same CPL, so no timing change at the cam. Could someone in the past changed injectors and ECM, to increase power,……… I’m sure but don’t know. When I bought the truck it came with some records of repairs and that’s where I found out the CPL. 1580 is 460hp but of course when I talked to the 1st owner, he said, “It’s at least 500hp”. Yeah, I don’t know. It was my understanding that 460hp was about tops for the injectors, ecm and turbo combination in a Celect.
I gave my CPL and engine serial number to a friend who’s the parts guy at Pete. He said they sell more Cummins and Interstate McBee, than anything but sell others too.

 

Radiator is junk. Found some that look and measure similar but they are claiming, “No oil cooler”. Are they referring to the transmission cooler, that was mounted in front of my existing radiator or are they referring to an outlet to the engine oil cooler?

 

If you can make the logistics work there’s a shop in west burlington ia that can fix yours…don’t want to put words in his mouth but pretty sure it will be a 5 year warranty. It probably won’t be any cheaper than other sources but I would almost guarantee it’s better quality. I send a lot of radiators to him usually farm and construction honestly don’t even price anything else just send it there…everything that’s come back has been absolutely perfect as far as craftsmanship and never any problems

 

Yeah, that’s waay out of my way but good to hear someone can still rebuild them, that you can trust. Mine needs a new core, stands it sits on and the bolts that hold it down.