Anyone tried swapping S Cam Bushings withougt removing Cam?

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by thesvg, Jun 5, 2011.

  1. canuck in da truck

    canuck in da truck Road Train Member

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    good --i forgot about that--pull the cam carrier off---might have to warm around the screws a bit to make it easy--then you can pull it off and drive the bushing out--put the new bushing and seal in and good to go--- saves some money--and a lot of time
    and dot cant check the outer bushing either
    although it will have wear--its probabely not that bad
    good luck
     
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  3. thesvg

    thesvg Light Load Member

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    Thank you!! If by any chance I have to remove the S Cam ( I have never done it before. just pressed the bushings in lol, will removing that lock ring from the slack adjuster make it loose, then It can come off when removing the hub right?
     
  4. canuck in da truck

    canuck in da truck Road Train Member

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    hmmm trying to get my memory working again,sometimes its slow

    at the end of the s-cam---at the slack adjuster there will be a lock ring--then a washer or 2--pull those off--then take the pin out of the clevis at slack adjuster,and you can adjust your slack adjuster so it clears the clevis and be pulled off of the s-cam
    then probabely another washer on cam then a lock ring

    then have to take the 4 bolts out that hold the carrier to the spider--being that they are torks---makes it a bit more difficult--but a bit of heat around the screws might help--then you should be able to pull the tube off---there will be a tiny o-ring on the inside outer shoulder of the tube as well
    i sure hope i am not forgetting something and it will screw the job up
    iirc the inner bushing will be in the tube as well--cause the tube fits right up into the spider--now as long as the s-cam doesnt slip in or the rollers pop out you should be ok

    it is kind of a messed up way to do it--i would definately prefer to do it the regular old way---
    maybe do a google and see if you can get a blow up of the assy just to be sure---once the tube is off and out there wont be anything supporting the s-cam other than if is between the rollers--i would sure hate to see it fall in and then you have to take everything apart anyways

    HOLD IT___HOLD IT

    HOLD IT--i usually work on trucks--so i just had a huge brain fart
    on the trailer--you dont have a cam carrier tube do you?---isnt the s-cam inner bushing just in a holder that is welded to the axle???
    like most of the s-cam is just out there in the open?
    hell yes just split that inner housing apart drive the bushing out--clean as good as you can put the new bushing in and put it all together


    sorry ---i feel like a dork--i was thinking of the way trucks s-cams are held in
     
    thesvg Thanks this.
  5. thesvg

    thesvg Light Load Member

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    Yes! It's welded on to the axle
     
  6. canuck in da truck

    canuck in da truck Road Train Member

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    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    14
    BRAKE CAMSHAFTS / CAM REPAIR KITS
    BRAKE CAMSHAFTS / CAM REPAIR KITS
    BRAKE CAMSHAFTS - trailer - Q+ (more camshafts available!)
    1-5/8" DIAMETER,
    28 SPLINE CAMS FOR
    ROCKWELL TRAILER AXLES
    4000-6000 SERIES
    WITH "Q+" BRAKES
    161/2" BRAKES
    Cam Kit No: NL1280
    1-5/8" DIAMETER,
    28 SPLINE CAMS FOR
    ROCKWELL TRAILER AXLES
    WITH "Q+" BRAKES
    161/2" DIAMETER
    FABRICATED SPIDER
    Part No.
    A
    B
    Application Information
    NL1938
    LH
    17
    5
    /
    16
    "
    2
    5
    /
    64
    "
    Rockwell 2210-C-6867, E-9091, 04-911732, E5506 (for bolt-on)
    NL1939
    RH
    Rockwell 2210-B-6686, E-9092, 04-911731, E5507 (for bolt-on)
    NL1940
    LH
    241/
    16
    "
    1
    31
    /
    32
    "
    Rockwell 2210-X-6576, E-6081, 04-912422, E5510
    NL1941
    RH
    Rockwell 2210-W-6575, E-6082, 04-912421, E5511
    2210G6871
    LH
    20
    15
    /
    32
    "
    2
    5
    /
    64
    "
    Rockwell 2210-P-6594, E-9093, 04-912042,
    2210F6870
    RH
    Rockwell 2210-N-6592, E-9094, 04-912041,
    2210E6869
    LH
    241/
    16
    "
    1
    31
    /
    32
    "
    Rockwell 2210-X-6576, E-6081, 04-912422, E5510
    2210D6868
    RH
    Rockwell 2210-W-6575, E-6082, 04-912421, E5511
    Cam Kit No: NL1417
    B
    A
    1
    5
    /
    8
    1¹/
    4
    1¹/2
    B
    A
    1
    5
    /
    8
    1¹/
    4
    11/2
    Part No.
    A
    B
    Application Information
    NL1958
    LH
    173/
    8
    "
    1
    25
    /
    32
    "
    Rockwell 2210-M-4329, M990L, E-2441A, 04-891732
    NL1959
    RH
    Rockwell 2210-L-4328, M990R, E-2442A, 04-891731
    2210T8158
    LH
    20
    13
    /
    32
    "
    1
    25
    /
    32
    "
    Rockwell 2210-R-4334, M991L, E-2443A, 04-892042 (for weld-on)
    2210S8157
    RH
    Rockwell 2210-Q-4333, M991R, E-2444A, 04-892041(for weld-on)
    NL1962
    LH
    241/
    8
    "
    1
    25
    /
    32
    "
    Rockwell 2210-P-4332, E-2445A
    NL1963
    RH
    Rockwell 2210-P-4330, E-2446A
    BRAKE CAMSHAFT REPAIR KITS
    Eaton 16-1/2" DIAMETER BRAKES
    501 Series, for 1-1/2" diameter camshafts
    Kit No. NL1277
    FRUEHAUF 12-1/4" AND 16-1/2"
    DIAMETER BRAKES
    For Propar axles, 1-5/8" diameter axles
    NL1228
    ROCKWELL 12-1/4" AND 16-1/2"
    DIAMETER BRAKES
    For 4000 - 6000 Trailer Axles
    1-5/8" diameter axles
    Kit No. NL1280
    SPICER 16-1/2" DIAMETER BRAKES
    Weld on Spider, for 1-1/2" diameter camshafts
    NL1238
    *ADDITIONAL CAM KITS ARE AVAILABLE!
    Rockwell 16-1/2" DIAMETER BRAKES
    Bolt on Spider Bushings (Fab Spider)
    Kit No. NL1417 (E-9079HD)(KIT8078A)

    ok i finally found a pic--so what you have is like the lower pic right?
    if so yes --you can just do th inner bushings--easy job--there is no cam tube----see i told you my memeory doesnt work some days

    but on this system if your outer bushing is worn --dot can check that cause the s-cam isnt in a tube

    sorry for giving you misinformation and wasting an hour of your time
     
  7. thesvg

    thesvg Light Load Member

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    Dec 9, 2010
    0
    Yes I have the bottom one, its all good I'm not going to work on it till tomorrow though. The outer one is good though most dot around here check the one next to the slack adjuster.
     
  8. canuck in da truck

    canuck in da truck Road Train Member

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    sorry bout that--my brain went automatically to truck brake setups---the trailers tend be a little more replacement friendly----
    so basically its more or less the same with the lock ring and washers
    ok i have to go work on the garage--i have had my DUH moment of the day
     
  9. thesvg

    thesvg Light Load Member

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    Dec 9, 2010
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    The install was a breeze a chisel and a hammer were needed to take the old one out it was being held by dirt.
     
  10. canuck in da truck

    canuck in da truck Road Train Member

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    good thing--glad you had no troubles
     
  11. JohnP3

    JohnP3 Road Train Member

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    Feb 21, 2010
    Rock Creek B.C. Canada
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    When the DOT checks it they just look at the top brake shoe and the bottom brake shoe if there is any difference in thickness, they know the inner bushing is worn, They can also back off the brakes and use a screw driver under the lower shoe if it moves that is the wear.
    When I worked at a transport company they use to, replace the brakes and rotate the "S" cam 180 degrees the next time they pulled the hub and replaced the "S" cams and bushings. If you have worn inner bushings and adjust the brakes the bottom shoe drags, Fuel costs to much to waist.
     
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