It's not a bad design, it's just wrong. I would just fix it, all you need is 2 of these in the correct size:
https://static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/6AFH7_AS01?$zmmain$
Your heater hose is probably 3/4" ID (maybe 5/8") and the tee looks like 1/2" NPT.
Can you bypass the sleeper heater core?
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by HopeOverMope, Apr 26, 2017.
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My crystal ball says they are 1/2 male pipe to hose fittings needed. Those fittings are usually smooth with a hump at the end. Barbs have multiple humps which would work also but not the norm in heater hoses.
Do away with two fittings under the hoses and use one. The hoses look to be 5/8's. If a 5/8 open end wrench will fit over the tube ,a little loose, where the top of the hose connects they are 5/8. If it won't they are 3/4.
Over sized clamps have a longer area at the worm gear. This can cause them to be unable to conform to the smaller circle and leak, as mentioned.
The blue hose is a superior silicon hose but they are softer and require a special clamp. They have an inner band inside the clamp that prevents pushing part of the hose through the slots in the clamp. This happens over time loosening the clamp and then leak.
Who ever thought so much could be said about a couple of heater hoses?
By the way it is marked on the ball valve, 1/2. Thanks Grape! I see that took me 30 minutes.Rideandrepair and HopeOverMope Thank this. -
Ditto on what boxcar said about the blue (silicon) hose. They take their own kind of clamp. The best is the ones that you don't tighten but use pliers or the fancy tool to squeeze the ends and then release them once they are in place. Them seem to do the best just due to heat (expansion contraction thing)
Rideandrepair and HopeOverMope Thank this. -
Yeah I like that suggestion grapeApe, I didn't want to fool with trying to loosen those double ended thread pieces and damage one of my other lines. But I think that's the best solution paired with the right clamps. Now, I got some good gooey pipe dope or teflon tape, which would be preferable to use on the new pieces I install? My gut is telling me the pipe dope.
Time to drain my coolant Friday, into clean buckets. Because trying to crimp my lines seem to never work for me.Rideandrepair Thanks this. -
With all that said, either works just fine when used correctly. If I were you, I'd get enough silicone hose to do all of your heater hoses and spend an afternoon to replace them all correctly and you be trouble free for years. That black hose in the picture is looking pretty shabby. It'll save you money in the long run.Last edited: Apr 27, 2017
AModelCat, Rideandrepair, rollin coal and 2 others Thank this. -
Finally got around to fixing... thanks grapeape, boxcarkidd and the crew
I got a coupler piece, then put a 5/8 pipe nipple attachment with a flange, also i got better clamps that are smooth on the insideLast edited: May 17, 2017
D.Tibbitt, Rideandrepair and GrapeApe Thank this. -
starmac, Rideandrepair, HopeOverMope and 1 other person Thank this.
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i would have rather simplified it, but i am a lot more satisfied where it is than how it wasRideandrepair Thanks this. -
I can't find those two valves, I have a Paccar motor 386 pete
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Those four clamps are way too tight. Something isn't right for all 4 of those connections. You need to put something on all 4 with teeth. Too hard to convert to English and describe for me.
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