cat mpg opinions and advice

Oh, I agree, I run 24.5LP because that's what came on my truck. It's not worth the hassle to try and go to 22.5.

I hadn't thought of the 'wearing out sooner' factor, but I would think the slight tire life difference is made up for by the cheaper cost. Just look at what the big companies run, they know what works cheaper over time. At least in a generic fleet-wide average, there are special cases to everything. That said, you still need the truck setup for the size tire you run.

Personally, I'd like to change gears so that I could run about 65 at the same rpm. I'd be interested to see how my fuel does. I'm actually thinking of going with enough gear to run 60ish in 12th and use 13th if I need to roll hard. Can't justify the cost for all that right now though.

Back to the original topic, I doubt I'd drop that kinda money (gear change) on that truck until I found out if that engine is worth investing in. It sounds as if it might be better to find a truck with a better model engine.

 

The MBN's can be made to run with reprogramming the ECM first.

 

I started with a 475/ 1650 torque MBN that had some codes when I purchased it (used). After I thought I finally got all the codes cleared, a fellow up in IL was supposed to have flashed my ecm to 550, took it off of soft cruise, and changed the injector codes. For some reason, the 550 flash didn't install, as DDS pointed this out to me whenever he got my configuration printout-( I had not really looked at it). However, the injector code change was such an improvement, that I drove around thinking I had 550 hp for a few months. I then had an injector hold-down bolt break, (Near the same town in IL where they supposedly turned my engine to 550 hp). The dealer that performed the repair stated that my cam was flaking, needed to be replaced. I just had them replace the injector, (cam was on backorder); came back to Lousy-ana, where a local tech installed the 3406E marine cam. I think it is part # 130-1097, (big improvement on power, and engine breathing, but NOT compatible with stock MBN ecm). DDS sold me a used ECM that he had installed a 550 6NZ file, and engine is doing much better-
(A) improved fuel mileage (B) lower egts (C) WAY more power!

Concerning the catalytic style mufflers, mine were under the sleeper, cylinder shaped, similar to the vertical cab mounted mufflers, but with inlet, and outlet on the same end. I replaced them with the oval shaped older style under sleeper muffler you see on a lot of W900s, and some Internationals.
As you do travel to CA, something you may need to consider, if you remove the catalytic mufflers, is your truck ever checked for emissions?
With my 6NZ ecm, my truck will smoke pretty good if I gouge on it after changing gears. Maybe there is a "tamer" file that could be installed in yours, or possibly the marine cam has something to do with it; but I'm pretty sure my truck won't pass the "smoke test". (boo hoo)

 

Hey droy, I know this is a little off topic but i noticed you put in the marine cam . What can you tell me about the difference it made in your engine. Did it hurt bottem end performance , is the power smoother through the power band. idle any different. I was thinkin hard about this purchase for my 1lw 550. Like to get a little feed back on it, thanks

 

Hello Mr. Haney;
approx. 30k mi. back, I had my MBN inframed due to seized piston rings on #1, not sure, but I think the shop that did the work went back with the correct (MBN) paks for that engine. Now that I read your above statement, I am curious how much of a difference it would have made had they used paks for a 6NZ?
I'm sure you have probably read some of my previous posts here, and are aware that I am running the marine cam, and 6NZ ecm.

 

Engine is definitely stronger at ANY rpm; It would really hard for me to say about the bottom end power. The cam install, and ecm swap (475hp MBN to 550hp 6NZ) were done together, and the power increase negates any loss on the low end. I do lug my engine alot, my range is as low as 1100, then up shifting around 1400 when the power band is just starting to kick in. If I wind it up tighter, the power is even more noticeable. My truck is really long legged, 3.36 with a 13 over on 24.5 tall. 73 mph in last hole = 1400 rpm.
The only time it is not smooth, is under 1100 rpm. Driving/lugging under 1100 will shake the truck violently, I have to downshift. When parked, my engine idles really rough; this happened after the injector codes were changed- I am seriously considering going back to the stock codes, but don't know how much difference in power it would make. I'm also a little worried that this roughness is throwing the crank's balance off.
As far as the cam, I am 100% satisfied, and would:
(A) install this cam in another of my engines, without thinking twice,
and
(B) recommend this cam to anyone.
My dad had a 1998 Pete with a 550, him & I ran together alot. I also drove that truck often; he sold it, and retired before I got my present truck, but I firmly believe he could not have stayed with this truck in hard pulls.

The camshaft is rather pricey $$$$$$$$$$ around $2300, and wouldn't take my old cam as core,( different family) .
I think it is Mr. Haney who recommended to Rockhauler, some place in Denver perhaps, that can regrind your cam alot cheaper. Maybe he can chip in.

hope this helps

 

A couple places I've used for cam regrinds with good results are Delta Camshaft and B&G Machine. Delta doesn't always have the profile I need for HD applications, but they often do. B&G does nothing but heavy duty engines, a 3406 is a small engine for them. I've had B&G regrind quite a few cams for CAT, Cummins and Detroit to different specs with good results.

B&G can have the cams re-hardened in some cases as well. I'm pretty sure they send them out, but that can save some coin if you have one that the hardness has started going away.

 

I don't think you'd see any performance difference to speak of no matter which piston you used. I think there is a trade off between higher compression and a power gain, but I have never seen a dyno run on an MBN with the right modifications versus a 6NZ to give you an answer that is nothing more than my opinion.

These engines aren't designed to lug below 1200RPM, the Acerts have bigger rod bearings and rods to handle the stress of lower RPM.

Depending on the injector trim code used you are looking at a 40-60 Hp gain at the tires. Trim codes do cause a rough idle and after much thought about how much of a difference there is in flow between injectors when trimmed this way, I run the codes that are on the injector for a balanced power level between cylinders. I rather just play with fuel codes or flash files for the gain I'm looking for.

I don't have a source for reground camshafts, I also like the 201-2677 cam the most as it's worth a 100 hp to the ground,.

 

Thanks for the info droy,
I priced the cam out and it works out to 2200-2300. Like you said the core is not the same family. Its still an e model cam so i dont quite agree with that, i could see if you were giving them a b model cam back. I guess if you want to play you got to pay. I could buy a regrind stg 2 from pdi for 1350 and save some money. But this is a regrind versus brand new from cat. And i know the cat cam flat works! With PDI you get some mystery cam that aperently works well.(so they say) . I haven;t herd anyone running one also.

 

I think the codes DDS put in are the 5232

Correction on previous post of mine.
The camshaft I ordered was #130-9710; what came in was 10R7155- (updated # maybe?)
Price was $1,124.78 + $494.31 core charge; (remember Cat wouldn't accept my cam for a core).
Replacing one cam follower, and other misc. parts = the $2300 price tag I was thinking of.

Swaan:
IIRC, the cam I received was a reman. Someone mentioned to me that if you order reman from Cat, they will send new, at reman price, if reman is not available at that time. Sort of hit or miss.