Get me to a shop tricks....

-Inter axle u-joint failure: Remove driveshaft completely, lock in power divider. Good to go.
-Hole in steel rad hose: Cut open a piece of silicone heater hose and clamp over the hole with a hose clamp. Doesn't always work 100% but it might get you back to civilization. If you're low on coolant, just dump clean water in if you have no extra coolant. Don't recommend it if its cold out. Definitely make sure you replace the coolant ASAP if you need to resort to using straight water.
-Never tried this but I heard it works. If you've got a hole in an aluminum rad, use a pair of needlenose pliers to crimp the tube off on either side of the hole.
-If you happen to be driving a 24 volt truck and need a boost but only 12 volt vehicles are around. Just hook up a 12 volt vehicle to each battery bank. Or just charge one set, then charge and boost the 2nd set.
-Starter not working: Give the housing a good whack with something. Sometimes works. Sometimes you might have to jump the starter or jump the starter while someone turns the key.
-Heater valve control cable seized: Remove cable from water valve and zip tie valve either on or off.

 

Talking about those tire plug kits, always have one with me, have used it to plug a leaking airbag before. Held until I got home & could change the bag.

 

I think getting your hands dirty, and knowing how all the systems operate are key before you ever consider O/Op. And for old dogs like me, beneath all that computer controlled bs, there is still an engine, cooling, air compressor, etc.. They may not operate the same, but the fundamentals still remain the same.
Tools I'd add to everything listed, hammers (3) upto 5lb hand sledge, full set of combo wrenches (open end/boxend) to 1 1/4" or metric equivalent. adjustable Cresent wrenches, adjustable fuel filter wrench, knife, and propane torch. <---everything fitted into a single side box, and under 75lb.

coolant leak, loosen the pressure cap
air leak, cut the line and insert a self-locking press on splice
electrical/computer managment problem wiggle the wiring
if a hammer doesn't fix it, get a bigger hammer
a cheap screwdriver never made a problem screw better

 

Get yourself a roll of extreme tape. Coolant lines. Air lines steel coolant lines. Rubber lines going to brake chambers and fuel lines can all be fixed in a minute with this stuff.

 

Great thread!!
Never heard of using a bar of soap, will be getting one for the tool box.

I took a small rock to my radiator probably 10 years ago. After draining the coolant I pinched the tubes above and below off and slathered them in JB weld, hasn't leaked since.

When I did that I also dumped in a bunch of Barr's leak, sometime later I had (I think) the oil cooler fixed (leak) and my mechanic said the tubes were jam packed with the Barr's leak crap. So don't use that anymore.

A teaspoon of pepper will plug a pinhole leak I hear

 

I have used a bar of soap on a fuel tank leak as well, and then repaired with JB Weld. No leaks when I sold the truck.

 

What the tire guy at the shop that I trusted explained about plugs to me.

The new passenger car and truck tires are made differently than years ago.

The plys are glued together differently and a plug will allow air to get between the plys and separate them.a patch seals from the inside and prevents this.

 

If you rotate your underwear front to back and than inside out you can get 4 days out of them , depending in what spot they wear the most.

 

Yep, when you get a bubble in the sidewall the innermost liner has a hole in it or a patch failed. In the tire world they call that a separation. When getting a used or recap tire if you run your hands along both sides as you roll the tire you can usually feel them. Just a slight bump in the sidewall.

 

Wouldn't doubt this scenario but if I'm in the middle of nowhere & it will work long enough to get me back to civilization I'll still do it.

I have a plug kit that has a bottle of rubber cement in it & I slather that stuff on the plug, so maybe it will help keep it from happening.